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Bonzer

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About Bonzer

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  1. Thanks very much for this overview Was this the one you got good results from? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/vibration-sensors/0285784/
  2. What amp design have you used to achieve this result? Also, is this still using the clip-on piezo mic? I've tried to look back at this huge thread, but not really got the full information. Thanks!
  3. Basically, yes. The hairspring was a a bit bent and sticking out the stud before I did anything. It was running at low amplitude and at circa -100s/d. Its running at much better amplitude now and around +15 s/d but out of beat.... possibly because I thought I was doing the right thing in reducing the 'spare' length of spring.
  4. Thank you both for your help. Interesting thought about the adjustment of the hairspring in the stud. When I first refitted the spring, there was a good 10mm of spring that was sticking out the other side of the stud and I got a beat error of 0.5ms! I 'corrected' this and got a higher beat error. Fortunately, I left the complete ling micro-pin uncut so I can still move the spring if needed.
  5. That's an excellent suggestion John, I can see the pallet stones and escape teeth in this movement. I guess the trick is not to put so much power into the train that the escape wheel overpowers the balance wheel, knocking it off it's natural resting position
  6. It would be a bit of a pain as I've already oiled everything so I'd imagine the stripped parts would need cleaning and re-oiling? The amplitude was between 270 and 300, depending on position. I'll try and get some photos Well, as watchweasol says, it's too risky trying to adjust it in place and in addition, it seems like it will be much safer to remove the balance wheel and spring completely from the balance cock before adjusting the collet. Is this correct?
  7. For about the first time ever, I've managed to do some successful hairspring manipulation and corrected a badly bent hairspring on a Longines 12.68n movement. It all runs a lot better apart from the 7ms beat error. I did mark the original position of the collet but not accurately enough. The problem is, due to the way the watch is built, I cannot see the pallet fork when it's at rest so therefore cannot determine even in which direction the spring needs to move in relation to the balance wheel. How can the direction and amount be ascertained with minimal visual clues? Secondly,
  8. Thank you jdm. I was aware that Cousins sold an assortment but I wasn't sure if it might be possible to order specific sizes from somewhere - although I can see why materials houses would perhaps prefer to sell an assortment. Thanks for the links ?
  9. I've since managed to extract this screw. What are my chances of obtaining a replacement, do you think? The screw head is 3.4mm dia Thread LH 0.95mm dia, 1.5mm long Is there a supplier that would be able to help?
  10. Thanks, I didn't realize these screws can be LH thread too ? Mikrolisk confirms that ASSA is A Schild. I just need to identify the movement now. Thanks
  11. The screw was stuck in thus pocket watch arbor. Despite leaving it to soak WD40, I managed to shear off the screwhead. Is this the sort of thing alum would be good for? Also, any idea which movement this is? - it is marked as ASSA on the mainplate and the only number is a 2 stamped somewhere else. I understand that ASSA is the same as A Schild (AS) but there is no movement number 2 showing up on Ranftt.
  12. I use a x10 loupe when oiling movements. However, I find it's a real struggle when oiling the pallet stone because my eye needs to be almost on-axis with the oiler (to get the oil in the right location) but the focal length means there is not enough distance between loupe and the movement to comfortably manipulate the oiler. Other than using a microscope, what is the best method of magnification for this sort of work?
  13. What about using a cutting broach, would that work? It seems that micro-reaming tools are very expensive ?
  14. Back to one of the original reasons for this thread - the need for a cannon pinion to fit this watch: I obtained a movement that was very similar but not similar enough (see warning in earlier post by oldhippy 'they look the same but there is always something wrong')! The cannon pinion in this replacement movement is slightly shorter but the pinion meshes nicely with the wheels and the existing hour wheel will still work nicely. However, the diameter of the centre hole is slightly smaller than it should be to fit on the existing pinion shaft. Now, I need to use the existing shaft bec
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