Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Hi all

Hope everybody is having a good weekend. I scored a used vintage parts washing machine and believe I got a decent deal considering what I've seen other vintage machines go for, 4, 5 even 600 bucks if not more. The seller says everything works and has a basket, jars/lids that are intact. It's a manual machine which suits my little hobby just fine. The nameplate is marked "Good-All Electric Mfg., Ogllalla, NE,. I did a quick search here and didn't find anything and found a little online about the company and its history. The company still exists today only under a different name, manufacturing electrical devices. They used to make welders, fishing reels and watch cleaning machines.  Check the two pics I have. Anyone have any experience with these? Any intel would be appreciated as I'm anxious to get my hands on it. This along with my little ultrasonic, the habit....er hobby should get a boost. Thanks

Mike

Screenshot_20210529-122406_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20210529-122439_eBay.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I did see this on ebay the other day and thought I'd never seen one like this before. I also thought what was that part sticking out for (red mark) Looks as if to the right of the machine it has an ultrasonic bass. Make sure all the wiring is safe, if you are not an electrician I would get someone who knows there stuff to look it over and make sure it's safe to use. I'm sure you will have good results with your cleaning machine.   

Screenshot_20210529-122406_eBay.thumb.jpg.ce06922737aa8a10bb185ba84cfd6ff7.jpg

Posted
30 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I did see this on ebay the other day and thought I'd never seen one like this before. I also thought what was that part sticking out for (red mark) Looks as if to the right of the machine it has an ultrasonic bass. Make sure all the wiring is safe, if you are not an electrician I would get someone who knows there stuff to look it over and make sure it's safe to use. I'm sure you will have good results with your cleaning machine.   

 Hi Hippy the circled part I believe is a lever to advance a jar to the next cycle. The wiring and terminals from what I can tell here look to be in decent shape. As far as the variable speed (reostat) knob, heater and plate switch I'll have to check when I get it along with the motor. It says the whole thing is semi automatic with no on/off switch and that the motor is bi-directional, changing every 5-10 seconds. Its operational by simply pressing the motor mount gantry to the down/wash position, then up, to off. Thankfully as a Millwright and machinery repairman I have a decent working knowledge of the electrical otherwise I might not touch the thing. Waiting on an email response to questions from the seller. I look forward to getting my hands on it. 

Screenshot_20210530-021833_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20210530-022020_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20210530-022041_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20210530-022100_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20210530-022107_eBay.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

BTW-I'm not sure about the possible ultrasonic unit to the right of the machine goes with the washer itself. The listing says nothing about it, I could be wrong though and will ask for sure. Thanks Hippy.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/30/2021 at 1:44 AM, oldhippy said:

I did see this on ebay the other day and thought I'd never seen one like this before. I also thought what was that part sticking out for (red mark) Looks as if to the right of the machine it has an ultrasonic bass. Make sure all the wiring is safe, if you are not an electrician I would get someone who knows there stuff to look it over and make sure it's safe to use. I'm sure you will have good results with your cleaning machine.   

Screenshot_20210529-122406_eBay.thumb.jpg.ce06922737aa8a10bb185ba84cfd6ff7.jpg

question for you Hippy-I haven't tried it yet-just had major surgery done. could I use lighter fluid as my cleaning agent, and IPA as my rinse, with this machine? it's all I've ever used by hand and in my ultrasonic and all I have on-hand. 

Posted

In my cleaning machines I had I always used  L & R cleaner and rinse. I only used Ronsonol lighter fluid for cleaning hairsprings and sometimes pallets.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The ultrasonic base is from an L&R Varimatic machine. On those the transducer is above the basket, in the head of the machine. I suppose that part could be adapted to a machine like the Good-All, but this one hasn't been converted.

 

L&R cleaner and rinse is fantastic, it's good enough that some major manufacturers here use it rather than some also excellent native solutions. On this machine with sealable jars it should last quite a while, and you can get a good 20 or so watches through on one batch so a gallon goes a long way.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
14 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

The ultrasonic base is from an L&R Varimatic machine. On those the transducer is above the basket, in the head of the machine. I suppose that part could be adapted to a machine like the Good-All, but this one hasn't been converted.

yeah saw that when I looked closer. Found out that that was for a seperate sale anyway. The only thing I've found out about the Good-All so far is that it was invented and made by a Robert Goodall out of Ogalla, NE. back in the 40s and 50s . he had a family business that made electrical parts before and then heavily during the war, but was also known to have made Good-All fishing reels that I guess were the hottest ticket back then. he only made wash machines for a short time. this one is in excellent shape and works very well. looking forward to the chance to use it. still trying to find out more about it. His company still remains today, although bought by a foreign company who changed the name.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

I just found one of these machines in the basement of an old jewelry store in Wahoo, Nebraska, about 250 miles from where it was made. It's complete and it operates (although some serious re-wiring is going to happen before it gets any real use). 

I'ma bit puzzled by the heater system. My machine has what appears to be a giant tube resistor  positioned more or less underneath the drying area, but it doesn't work at the moment. The machine in the photos above seems to be lacking this piece. Is there a heater that I'm missing on that machine? (The light bulb doesn't do anything except illuminate an indicator light--it's not part of the heater system.). 

--Jay

IMG_0542.jpg

IMG_0511.jpg

Posted

Hi Jay

nice find! BTW I just answered your DM you sent me last Thursday regarding this, but I hadn't seen this thread.

It seems your model is an earlier model than mine. whereas mine is multidirectional and on a cam timer(in other words, the wash cycle "agitates" back and forth, like a modern day washing machine), and the heater is activated by the on/off switch(parallel circuit), your heater seems different than mine. Can't quite discern what that tube is so I'm going to guess-a rheostat of some sort for temp. adjustment or possibly a capacitor? not sure. I also see that you have two levers on the exterior. one for indexing the jar position but the second one I'm not sure of because I can't really see what it is connected to.  with the exception of a few minor adjustments and replacing some of the ancient wires and solder joints it works perfect and is quite quiet. there is a repair shop somewhere on the east coast that repairs/rebuilds parts cleaning machines, ultrasonics, etc and for the life of me i cant find their contact stuff but i do know that when I contacted them about these, they had never heard of Good-Alls. take a few closer detailed pics of the wirirng and stuff, see if we can't figure it out.

Mike

nicklesilver might know who that rebuild company is. I think he was the one who suggested them awhile ago...

Posted (edited)

Thanks Mike.

I've finished the rewiring, not much to it, and it seems to be working 100%.

It must be older than yours because it's much simpler.  It has three controls:

1. An on/off toggle switch that operates the heaters. 

2. The large sliding  lever manually allows the jars to spin when depressed.  (same as yours).

3. The small sliding lever controls the on/off and the speed of the agitator motor.  It does so by sliding along the large tube rheostat. The motor doesn't change direction, but the sliding agitator allows you to operate it far faster than anyone in their right mind should ever attempt.  

That's it, no timer, no fuse, not even a real on/off switch. Simpler times. Probably the most interesting thing is that the heater elements are from a WWI Era electric cigar lighter, and were designed to get hot enough to light a cigar in a matter of seconds. With two of them side by side they produce a LOT of heat (see photo).  https://www.ebay.com/itm/334472065241?hash=item4de016b0d9:g:vZEAAOSwbeNinp2h

 

Jay

IMG_0568.jpg

Edited by CJMiller
typo
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Jay

I seem to not get all notifications for responses...I didn't see this one either. does this happen to you at all? this isn't the first time...

wow those heaters! Old cigar lighters thats really cool. my heater also gets very hot very fast (found that out the hard way) but uses coils akin to an old toaster, encased in a ceramic tube/cup.  it's a beast of a machine but works great. The jars were made for it with lead-capped lids for liquid storage and vapor control. it looks like your serial number on front starts with a "4" and mine is "5" which probably explains the progression of design. what do you use for clean n rinse?

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Hello all, recently found this same model in my attic. After hours of searching, I found this forum. Other than that the trail is bone dry. What else have you learned about the machine, if anything? What is the going rate for something like this? I don’t want to test it due to the wiring being old and brittle. I have no interest in keeping it personally. I just can’t find any other info on this. 

BFF1450A-21D6-4AB2-BE1E-AD320A29E0FE.jpeg

89BA4DDD-585A-45AF-B4B7-C120B6E0D454.jpeg

CB2E95ED-1303-4E6E-ADD4-5F30A9D4FFF5.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Dalich-sorry for the late reply. I'm not getting notifications apparently not sure why. all I know is what you know. I haven't found out anything more except that very few were made but that the ones that were all have some slight veriations but that even after decades they are sturdy and work very well. I even contacted a restoring company out east and they had never heard or seen them before. I'll reply to your email shortly.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hello. I just joined this forum because I spotted the posts by both MechanicMike and Dalich. The Good-All watch repair machine was made in my hometown of Ogallala, NE. I don't know whether Dalich has the machine, but if so and Dalich still doesn't want to keep it, I would be interested in acquiring it to donate to my hometown museum if the cost isn't too much. It certainly doesn't need to be in operating condition. Please let me know! Thanks.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, toddvk said:

Hello. I just joined this forum because I spotted the posts by both MechanicMike and Dalich. The Good-All watch repair machine was made in my hometown of Ogallala, NE. I don't know whether Dalich has the machine, but if so and Dalich still doesn't want to keep it, I would be interested in acquiring it to donate to my hometown museum if the cost isn't too much. It certainly doesn't need to be in operating condition. Please let me know! Thanks.

@Dalichhas only one post, obviously not a regular. We don't discuss buying and selling on here. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for that clarification. I'm a newspaper journalist in nearby North Platte, NE, and my late father was an electrical engineer specializing in capacitor design for Goodall's successor firms TRW and ASC. I can tell more about Robert Goodall's impact on the world of inventions as well as during World War II if anyone's interested. Good luck to you.

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, toddvk said:

can tell more about Robert Goodall's impact on the world of inventions as well as during World War II if anyone's interested.

We will be interested, please post in the relaxed zone or watch industry.  Tried a quick Google and didn't find any information.  If anyone can provide you with the machine, cost's can be discussed by PM. 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...