Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

I need a bit of help here. In trying to turn a mean time screw I have sheared off the head on my 18s Waltham. Pics attached. Not worried about the ruined screw but I need to find a way to safely remove the remainder. It's not protruding at all on the outside so pin vise is not an option. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

FB_IMG_1621525370290.jpg

FB_IMG_1621525379326.jpg

Posted

It will have to be drilled. As you probably don't have a jig boring machine, the safest bet would be to drill it out by hand, rotating the drill in a pinvice. Most important thing is to get it in the center of the broken screw, for this you can take a piece of carbide or hard steel and grind 3 flats at 120 degrees to each other, at about a 40 degree angle to the end. Use this to carefully make a start pip, then drill through. Move up in drill size until you are right at the threads, you can then pick out the remaining bit. If it goes as planned the threads in the balance will be OK and you can fit a new screw.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, JohnC said:

@nickelsilver
thanks. Others have recommended drilling enough to insert a broach, and then attempting to screw it either out or through. Thoughts?

Yes, that can work, but don't break the broach!

 

Sometimes if you're lucky the drilling will actually screw it on through.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

Yes, that can work, but don't break the broach!

Oooh yes, good point. Okay, first some oil and then I will attempt that. If it seems like the broach will break I'll try to drill out to the inside diameter of the screw. Many thanks. Just swapped the staff so the last thing I want to do is source a balance. I want to get past the "balance complete" stage.

Posted

I had a broken screw in a mainplate recently - there were some female threads visible so I screwed in a screw with the same thread (full length undamaged screw) which grabbed the end of the broken screw and it came out fairly easily. Perhaps I was lucky, and it does rely on the broken thread having little or no tension on it - if the threads are distorted and tight it will likely not work.  

It was a much better solution than trying to drill it out without damaging the threads. It does rely on having a few "empty" threads though. Not sure from your photo if you have any? 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi John,  In case there is some empty thread, a quick but imperfect approach is to file down a new screw just short enough to fit what thread is left, try to shelac the screw thread to keep it from loosening.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If a runner, I usually let the movement run in naphta for a minute, some movements need a bit of encouragement to run in liquids, so a quick dip of the movement in naphta then remove and encourage the oscilator with puffer, repeat several soaks.  Or if you don't want to soak or dip the movement in cleaning solution ,   keep putting naphta on jewel holes as the movement runs on bench. A pre-clean of some sort  helps.  Avoid lifting out the fork with tweezers or any tool.  Try blowing fork pivot out  with strong puff of air from jewels holes back side. Good luck .      
    • 60! Wow, that's a lot. Can't say I understand the problem because disassembly is usually quite uneventful, except for springs launching into space. Most people break pivots during assembly. I use a homemade brass pry tool to loosen parts. It's just a short length of hard brass wire sharpened to a chisel point. Don't pry at just one point and crowbar it out. Pry at the notch and when a crack opens up, slip the pry tool in and loosen it at a few more points until the bridge is free.
    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
×
×
  • Create New...