Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi, I uploaded a bunch of my "attempts" over the past few months.  Some worked, some are ready for the trash!

I have tried a lot of things, but what is working best so far is to:

  • Use waterslide decals to laser print the design and adhere to a pre-cut dial or even just a piece of sheet metal.  I am finding that brass and aluminum shined up really well are working best
  • I invert the design (black becomes white and vice-versa) and adhere to metal.  Then I use salt-water electro-etching to mark the design into the metal.  This can leave either a "raised" or "cut" affect on the metal.
  • If I want to try and have the markers/number have a very small amount of height, (like 0.2mm at best) so they stand-out, then I print the markers/numbers/second track in black and the white space is etched away.  I do the opposite if I want the numbers/markers to be etched into the dial.
  • Then I print another water slide decal, the inverse of the 1st one, and use that to fill-in what was etched away.
  • I use 2-4 layers of water slide decals and might even etch in stages to create "layers" in the dial as best I can...
  • Sometimes I etch, then white spray enamel and then put a darker decal on top, so the markers underneath the decal are white.  That's what I did for the black dial/white numbers in the pilot style watches below.

Like I said, some end up in the trash and a just a small few look OK.  

I will make a video at some point once I feel like I am making more quality work.

Mike

60545050058__7B992DD7-709D-4D99-84DF-6D6892FA554D.JPG

61033918534__0E92F0F9-3096-419B-85FC-A0AD12FCE448.JPG

61670680393__DB1AED38-BFF0-4F67-9CDD-87BEAAEA89B1.JPG

61930474419__55BD56A2-3390-4F85-94FF-B5F90608E795.JPG

62415263893__4C2B6E93-B818-418F-B739-FD4B8D50E38B.JPG

62422079280__A5C9433F-A1B4-484B-87EB-F9F8CE059B72.JPG

62423987554__7CC33DC8-B11F-492E-ABAF-C7A675BF605F.JPG

IMG_3854.JPG

IMG_5445.JPG

 

Edited by watchguy2021
  • Like 6
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know!! I agree!!  It’s something you can see when you take a close up pic but not really when you check the time on your wrist.

but yes, it’s an issue.   I had access to a high quality printer pre-pandemic but now I have a very basic laser at home.  I tried going to Staples to use their printers but they are hit or miss, sometimes they say no and sometimes they screw it up and waste expensive decal pages.   I suppose if I really really fall I love with one of my designs I will buy a better laser printer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
    • Yes I understand that. What I’m asking is, after the hands have been fitted, it’s been checked that the hands do not touch etc. then I need to remove the stem to fit the movement in the case. I have the push type, I need to turn it upside down and push the setting lever post and pull the stem out. But of course the dial and hands are in place and I have a glossy dial with lume dots and I do not want to cause any damage while it’s upside down pushing on the post of the setting lever.
×
×
  • Create New...