Jump to content

Waltham 155 Movement From 1900 - Advice Please


WillFly

Recommended Posts

I've got a very nice 15-jewel,  Waltham wristwatch movement head, size 0, grade 155, from the year 1900. It's cased but is without winding stem and crown. I'd hoped to be able to get a stem and crown, either as parts or from another "spares or repair" piece.

 

Unfortuntely, I discovered recently that Waltham didn't, in fact, make their own stems and crowns for this movement - they relied on them being an integral part of the case. So - unless I can find a similar head or case with stem and crown, I'm stymied, and to find one from the same era and size is going to be long  haul job.

 

Any advice as to progress - or should I just sell it on?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These two parts are made years apart... The movement is designed for a pocket watch case, hunter style. The case is much later, 25-35 plus years and was designed for a purpose built wristwatch movement that has the winding stem integrated into the movement, just like today's watches.

 

I can see no real practical or cheap way to make this marriage happen. I would punt, IMHO.

 

Your only other option is to find a 0s American case and install the movement into it. At least you'll have a complete pocket watch, but not a wristwatch.

Sorry.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will, I have worked on many of these recased American made movements in friction stem wristwatches. Your movement is an American made Waltham 3/0 in size. It appears to me that you need a stem, sleeve (friction type) , and a crown. Some of these cases take a screw in type sleeve and others just fit from the bottom of the case tube. Unless you have an assortment of sleeves and stems for these type of cases it is hard to locate the correct sleeve and stem not to mention the crown. They are nice watches once you finish them, but finding those parts can be a challenge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi southwesttimers- how common are these type of wristwatch cases that used these friction stem/sleeve setups? I've seen one before but it was done aftermarket with a modern type case and a Hamilton 992 movement. It seems to me the sleeve is the most important part of this steup as the stem can easily be turned and a crown can be adapted to fit. Is there anyone selling sleeves for this particular aplication or can a threaded sleeve be modified to work in this situation? 

 

BTW, with the serial number stamped on the movement, 10389186, I get a size 0 in the pocketwatch database, not a 3/0 is my database incorrect?

 

Thanks!

DJW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everyone I have ever seen like this has a sleeve with four leaves on it - usually one or two leaves are broken off. I have never seen a screw on type of sleeve on the wrist watch walthams. But I have never found a supplier of the sleeves either.

I have tried to make them but never had good results. I get the shape right and technically it works but I can never seem to replicate the springiness (is that a word). So when doing the hardening and tempering I either get it too soft or too brittle. I'm most likely using the wrong kind of steel.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks for all the info and advice on this movement - which, I believe, is a straight 0 size according to my Waltham database - it's greatly appreciated. I've actually done a bit of research on this and come to the conclusion - backed up by the evidence of people on this forum - that the game isn't worth the candle for me. If anyone wants to tinker with this for the the cost of the cheapest postage, you're welcome to it. If not, I shall probably put it aside for a rainy day, get my tools and digital camera at the ready - and do my first real teardown... :skydive:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • For me any input from Mark would be great. If he's keeping a close eye i would imagine he has read about our concerns here. But specifically i would like to know if he is ok with us collecting each others contact information for those of us that wish to provide them. 
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Thank you!   Yes I did. I did not notice a difference. Although 9415 is advertised as a thixotropic grease (and I did had high hopes for it), the only advantage at this point I see is that its “easier” to apply than an oil (if one does not use epilame). But this is subjective, I guess. What I did notice though, if you apply a bit too much grease, that definitely slows down the movement. Oil in this case is a bit more forgiving, as its super thin, and it would usually just spread out.  Again, imho.
    • Mark keeps a close eye on his forum. I'm sure if you asked him he will reply, he might not do it right away but you will receive his answer.  
    • I kind of think the same, the surface under the oil is the same as the surface around the oil. Can epilame both repel and attract , that doesn't quite make sense in simple terms, but is it more complicated than that. When cohesive forces within a liquid are stronger than the adhesive forces of a surface then surface tension is high causing the liquid to bead up. So  an applied epilame coating reduces the adhesive force of a surface inhibiting a fluid to wet the surface. So i guess no epilame cannot both repel and attract . If something is keeping the oil in place on top of an epilamed surface then there must be another reason for that.
×
×
  • Create New...