Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

I’m looking for advice from anyone who has decent experience with chronographs, and perhaps specifically the Venus 150. 
 

I’ve replaced a minute recording wheel on this Breitling as the pivot was broken where the hand attaches. Otherwise it was working ok. 
 

I’ve fitted the Cousins replacement and this appears to work well, except now the hammer does not strike the centre-seconds cam securely enough to stop any “slop” so the reset is inconsistently not zero. I’ve checked the seconds hand pipe is tight enough and can visibly see that the hammer is not pressing closely enough on the centre-seconds cam. 
 

I believe the new cam on the minute counter is slightly larger and is stopping the hammer reach the seconds cam properly. The new minute counter cam is 0.1mm wider. 
 

So... best approach or other ideas? I could buy a later centre-seconds runner so that it has a later cam, but that will be expensive. Or I could remove material from the hammer edge which hits the minute counter cam. The new minute counter cam is riveted on, unlike the original which is screwed on. 
 

Note that the photos are pre-cleaning and I do not believe this will affect the operation as the hammer itself has a good action and is being stopped by the minute counter’s cam. 

9E7F6DA4-F0B7-4269-B2EA-6B852CFF7A21.jpeg

04858880-8813-4E63-97E6-8756049F2CAF.jpeg

Posted

If it were me (and you're not, nor should you be), I think I'd take a file/emery stick to the top of the new cam. Original parts are only original once, but new parts can be sourced. You're forced into a new minute counter by nature of the repair, but the others are still original. That seems like the lowest impact and most cautious approach you could take. That said, I'm a dummy, and someone else will be along shortly to prove it.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted

I believe the cams are glass-hard, so don’t think that would be a simple option. It would also potentially be difficult to maintain the original profile. 

Posted

I frequently find that I need to file hammers on chronographs. You will want to check how the hammer is holding the minute counter wheel in relation to the minute counter jumper; it likely is pulling it one way or the other so the jumper isn't centered on two teeth. File the hammer face in a direction that will correct this, while introducing the freedom needed. Go very slowly, a little goes a long way- you don't want to start going back and forth between the hammer faces! When it's to the point that it is just making contact with the seconds cam, then you need to finish the hammer face. I do this with micron graded self adhesive abrasive paper stuck to a stiff slender steel backer, usually start with 20 or 12 micron, then down to 5, then 1. Ideally you want a mirror finish but as long as there aren't deep scratches "shiny" will do.

 

A tiny vice is a godsend for this kind of work, and I do it under a microscope.

  • Like 2
Posted

Superb. Detailed advice. Thank you very much. I tend to avoid chronographs, so this is very helpful. Cheers!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
    • Once you are aware of the problem, you can adjust as necessary. I have a couple of the Omega 10xx, and they are not my favourites. They seem a bit flimsy and not as solid as previous generation Omega. But I think that's true of a lot of movements from the 70-80s. For me, the 50-60s is the peak in watch movements, where the design criteria was quality, not saving the last penny.
    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...