Jump to content

Project Sekonda


Recommended Posts

Thought I'd share another triumph, for me anyway. I'm still new to this game and don't have a dedicated work space and only functional tools. Picked up this 1970's "30" jewelled automatic wonder just before Christmas. 

It wasn't without issues. In it's past someone had poured a load of oil into it (smelt a bit on opening) and it took a while to clean it all by hand, soaking this and pegging that. I was lucky enough to find parts which proved invaluable and educational. I even plucked up courage and practised removal and lubricating shock jewels which was a first for me, still have a healthy respect of them though

Replaced the double toothed hour wheel, missing three teeth. Date wheel, ruined by the old oil. Rotor as the brass bushing was too worn, and it sounded like a bag of spanners, now it's gloriously silent.

It then turned into a labour of love as I even had a go at the hands. After much deliberation I applied lume by way of my own improvement, they were originally painted white but the oil had affected these to the point the paint had dissolved.

It's now my favourite watch, it's been running really well for over a month now and keeping great time, so I must have done something right.

Anyway I thought I'd share it, as perhaps what can be achieved at the dining table with determination.   

Sekonda_grey_30j.jpg

20201221_115425.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks JohnC. Having some broken/partially dismantled donors as spares was a god send, as it gave me the confidence to give it go before trying it on the real thing. I used a pair of tweezers in both hands and gently positioned/held and rotated until all three legs were in.

The lume I was very pleased with, my first go at it to. I chose a teal colour as it didn't look green in normal daylight. If interested I can post a lume shot!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PastorChris, happy to oblige ?. Not so much a frustrating journey this time, as having spare parts to hand made it a pleasure if not a luxury. I count myself lucky to come by them. A great learning experience and something to pour all my focus into for period of time. 

lume_shot.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Well, that's a really nice watch! Congrats and well done! ?

Do you happen to know what calibre is in there? I would suspect a Poljot calibre 2616.1H. No other Poljot has that many jewels so possibly their most lavish automatic.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's very kind of you to say VWatchie. It's been getting a lot of use, partly to monitor my handy work and I'm pleased to say it's still running. You're right it is a Poljot 2616. So many jewels, so much oiling practice. I found it great to work on. Hoping to have another ready to show off at some point in the future.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
On 2/7/2021 at 5:18 PM, Bearman said:

Thought I'd share another triumph, for me anyway. I'm still new to this game and don't have a dedicated work space and only functional tools. Picked up this 1970's "30" jewelled automatic wonder just before Christmas. 

It wasn't without issues. In it's past someone had poured a load of oil into it (smelt a bit on opening) and it took a while to clean it all by hand, soaking this and pegging that. I was lucky enough to find parts which proved invaluable and educational. I even plucked up courage and practised removal and lubricating shock jewels which was a first for me, still have a healthy respect of them though

Replaced the double toothed hour wheel, missing three teeth. Date wheel, ruined by the old oil. Rotor as the brass bushing was too worn, and it sounded like a bag of spanners, now it's gloriously silent.

It then turned into a labour of love as I even had a go at the hands. After much deliberation I applied lume by way of my own improvement, they were originally painted white but the oil had affected these to the point the paint had dissolved.

It's now my favourite watch, it's been running really well for over a month now and keeping great time, so I must have done something right.

Anyway I thought I'd share it, as perhaps what can be achieved at the dining table with determination.   

Sekonda_grey_30j.jpg

20201221_115425.jpg

I do like these 1970's Sekonda's.  sounds like you went to some lengths to repair this one, but well worth it. great job!

Looks nice on the blue Nato strap too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Stretch. It was worth the effort, it was the first automatic watch I'd had a go at servicing. Learnt a lot from it and gave me the confidence going forward. 

I always seem to keep coming back to them. If you like that one and if you've not seen it already check out my "Chunky Golden Nugget" I posted on here earlier in the year. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
×
×
  • Create New...