Jump to content

Omega Seamaster Racing 168.050


Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wanted to show a before and after of a recent project.   I completed Mark’s online courses a few months ago and have done a few small projects.  Mainly servicing and repair of movements.  

I am an Omega collector and wanted to acquire the Seamaster Racing 1974 due to the Cal. 564 movement.

I bought this on eBay for $500 and yes it was as rough as it looks.  Rust, corrosion and badly maintained movement.

67F1D910-A836-4B5D-887A-E7A4560A1AE8.thumb.jpeg.c8c53cce38e66188aa2dfeab0696d40a.jpeg
 

I managed to find a NOS replacement crystal and bezel.   I serviced and repaired the movement back to Chronometer specs.

Unfortunately,  I can not take credit for the dial as I sent it to Bill & Sons.  But I will take credit for saving £200 off the bill by getting the Cliche for the outer race track on the dial done myself.

I never liked the leather strap or the original one from Omega.  Wanted a modern version of a beads of rise look but polished to match the watch.  Also wanted a fully mulled double clasp. 
 

there are the final results today after assembly.

 

6B924F65-D286-4FB8-B16C-962919FBAE76.thumb.jpeg.fe1a4486d4e93dc7587f1682601ba3e8.jpeg
 

B454E2D2-AF3F-43C8-BE48-332C93BE8C55.thumb.jpeg.3b4d857f1fd92958133ab12572029cb5.jpeg
 

58F1301D-9704-451F-9180-F855A925ABD4.thumb.jpeg.c875d0b9a6553556857e4447fa5221a7.jpeg
 

67B15898-FB80-4975-835B-60D94BB7B296.thumb.jpeg.cec4e755cd6a1d31ce329b71d777a2cf.jpeg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
7 hours ago, PastorChris said:

I am curious as to what was done to the dial. My understanding is that it re-finished? 

Mentioned above:

 I can not take credit for the dial as I sent it to Bill & Sons.  But I will take credit for saving £200 off the bill by getting the Cliche for the outer race track on the dial done myself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, jdm said:

Mentioned above:

 I can not take credit for the dial as I sent it to Bill & Sons.  But I will take credit for saving £200 off the bill by getting the Cliche for the outer race track on the dial done myself

I did read that, but being completely new to this area, I was wondering if you knew what exactly they did to get it back to that condition. Was it a full strip and plating? How are the markings replaced/restored?

 I just don't know and was wondering if you had some more information on the process as I find it very interesting. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, PastorChris said:

I did read that, but being completely new to this area, I was wondering if you knew what exactly they did to get it back to that condition. Was it a full strip and plating? How are the markings replaced/restored?

 I just don't know and was wondering if you had some more information on the process as I find it very interesting.

Same as making a new dial but reusing new parts when possible. On this one, I think, there is a sunburst brushing before silvering.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The original dial was rusty in places, someone had tried to restore it with black paint.  Painted over indices and botched the outer ring.

 

I could have bought one new from Omega as they have them in stock (£430 + vat).

 

The dial needed stripping back to a blank brass plate.  They had equipment to produce the sunburst brushed effect and also had the original pad plates to produce the text.  The missing part was the outside racetrack design.   I have my own plate made as the cost through B&S was over £240.   It cost me $39 and I designed it myself in Adobe illustrator.

 

I have put it next to an original and the only difference was that the ‘Swiss Made’ at the bottom was not quite the right font and size.  You can only tell with magnification.  
 

The strap was custom made.  I looked through the original catalogue from the period ‘68-74’ and found these...

B837EFE7-5D6B-471A-ADC3-328983B464ED.jpeg.5f77b7869fd793fb7934522dbae8ddb5.jpeg

 

I liked the RG 8230 but wanted it sized to 22mm with milled double clasp and polished to match the watch.  I found a custom strap/jewellery maker in the USA that could make this.  Compared to sourcing the original at £550 which I did not like, it ended up at half the price.  The links are all solid and it feels better quality than the £1500 one on my Breiiling.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sunburst is made by placing the blank on a rotating table.  A circular brass wire brush is lowered at a 90deg vertical to plate.  The wire brush is designed to just touch the centre outwards out to the edge.  So just sweeps the radius.

The dial is then rotated while the brush is lowered and rotated.    Go to 2:07 on video below to see the process.

All the indices are original, just polished and painted.  All text and tracks are added using a pad printer.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...