Rolex 1680 Submariner Date

Tudor · November 26, 2020

So, this is the watch I always wanted. It was a long road of saving, searching and a bit of swearing and sweating.

After the saving, this rough condition 1680 was purchased from an online watch dealer. It’s a 3.9m serial so one that may have originally had a desireable “red” dial. It came with a service dial, so although inconvenient to replace, it reinforced that it MAY have been a red dial when new.

It had many service parts, so that’s where the searching comes in. A red dial was several thousand dollars at the time; even more today... so I found a Mk. I white dial- first version of about four all white text dials used on the 1680. The crystal was also service, so I found an original 127 “top hat” with those nice sharp corners. A 702 crown and tube were installed to replace the 703 crown and tube that were on it. Though technically “better” the taller 703 just doesn’t look right on a classic Rolex. Then, the white background date wheel had to go. These early watches used a brushed stainless date wheel, so I found one and took care of that too. The bezel ring was over polished and the insert was a luminova service insert. Those were addressed, but the insert I found did not have a Peal. I installed an NOS tritium Pearl before I installed it in the new bezel ring (I need to get an old stock bezel ring but they are hard to find in good shape).

Now, the case was in rough shape, and the bracelet was much newer- probably a service replacement although it did not have the “S” normally next to the date code. Possibly updated by an independent in the 80’s some time.

This year was one of the first to use the (then) new 93150 bracelet, which replaced the 9315 folded links with solid ones. But the first couple years they did not get a date code stamped on them. Very rare, but I managed to find a clasp. So, the bracelet parts and mid case went to Michael Young in Hong Kong who rebuilt and reshaped the case, as well as restore the bracelet. (He also did an early ‘68 C&I bracelet for my 5512 at the same time)

Now, after more waiting, the parts finally were all on the bench at the same time.

Some delicate assembly (and the occasional swearing) and it was finally together. I do wear it, but I am careful with it. Definitely a keeper for sure. I’ll pass it to my Son one day.