Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good afternoon friends,

I picked up a small pocket watch from eBay which arrived yesterday. I was doing some minor disassembly to clean up the balance and escapement wheel pivots to see if it would run before I do a full tear down. Wouldn't you know as I was going to set the balance assembly back in, it slipped from my tweezers and the spring tangled around the balance cock and regulator. ? I managed to get it untangled but the spring is now stretched and twisted. On top of that disaster the spring is rusted a bit. I think it is best to just replace it at this point however this pocket watch seems to be very old and is unbranded. It has a cylinder escapement which is a first for me. The hairspring has no stud and is held into a hole in a brass block on the underside of the balance cock with a small brass pin. The main plate is stamped 1241 under the balance but there are no other markings. Hoping you all can set me in the right direction! 

IMG_20201125_124119.jpg

IMG_20201125_123957.jpg

IMG_20201125_123933.jpg

IMG_20201125_124142.jpg

IMG_20201125_124031.jpg

IMG_20201125_123950.jpg

Posted

Nice watch and I really enjoyed all the pictures! I'm afraid I have no advice to give. Hairsprings are pretty much still beyond my current skill level, but I wouldn't be surprised if someone trained in harspring adjustment would be able to take care of it. I will follow this thread with great interest. Perhaps these videos will be helpful. Good luck!

 

Posted

Thanks @VWatchie for the videos. I have seen Mark's but don't know that I've seen the other. I've been digging around ebay and it turns out there are a handful of these pocket watches available. I found two that were listed for parts and appear to be complete movements so I hope to be able to salvage atleast spring if not a whole balance assembly. If successfully I will work on the original one under the microscope to see what I can do with it. Should be a good learning experience.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

you could probably start by underpinning they hairspring from the stud and that we can get a better assessments. As far as replacement hairsprings go typically hairsprings are vibrated to the balance wheel that they are on. There are some exceptions like American pocket watches where the balance wheels had screws you could swap. On the other hand this is a cylinder watch it is not known for incredibly good timekeeping so you might be able to find another hairspring and swap perhaps.

 

 

Posted

That hairspring is thick enough to recoil from the start( collet outward).

We don't know the CGS for it, I am not sure if its the original either, in spite all this,  considering that balance wheel is large enough to accomodate stronger hairspring. if recoiling didn't go well, vibrating another H/S  wouldn't be challanging. 

 

Posted

Thank you for your input gentlemen. I don't have the tool to vibrate hairsprings yet but I will be doing some research into vibrating and recoiling. Hopefully one of the two parts watches I bought will have a good balance for now.

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Rdot84 said:

I don't have the tool to vibrate hairsprings yet

I think you'll find that a vibrating tool is a luxury item and almost none of us have one.

as an alternative you can put a hairspring in the watch and see what the hands are doing. Is not a great way to vibrate but if you had similar hairsprings which you probably don't. but fortunately the Swiss made lots of inexpensive cylinder watches out there so should be similar things available that might work. At least they get the hands moving.

Edited by JohnR725
  • Thanks 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Rdot84 said:

Thank you for your input gentlemen. I don't have the tool to vibrate hairsprings yet but I will be doing some research into vibrating and recoiling. Hopefully one of the two parts watches I bought will have a good balance for now.

My apology for late response.

Your watch is your vibrating tool.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Where I work everything incoming watches whatever detailed descriptions are taken entered into a computer program and photograph of each item. Then ideally although it depends on who's doing the paperwork detailed descriptions can be quite good other times there lacking. Like I really like it with pocket watches if they would record the serial number it avoids confusion later on. Then when watch repairs are completed that is also entered in. It's one of the amusements I learned when I was in school instructor had a shop and commented about the important aspect of keeping detailed records of repairs. Because oftentimes a customer who got a new crystal will come back later on when the watch doesn't work and expect you to fix the entire watch for free. Then you can remind them that they just got a crystal. Strangely enough that keeps coming up or occasionally comes up where I work now. One of the problems of using the service marks on the case is that in the case of pocket watches oftentimes that's not the original case. Then case marks? What I was doing warranty work for a company I used to describe a code number in the back of the case and it would tell me the next time I see the watch that basically what I did I made no attempt at keeping track of customers because we had literally thousands of them I think they sold 30,000 of these watches and they would come back by the hundreds because they had a lifetime warranty. Yes that's a story all of itself but I would put a code number that would reference what was done to the watch the last time and think I had a date in there somehow so it did tell a story if you knew the code. Another shop I once worked out the number would reference the page in the book. So other than knowing we had been in there you would have no idea what happened because you have to go look at the page in the book to see what happened. Then the problem of how you examine a watch you should examine the watch in detail every single time to avoid complications. Although on vintage watches and this is a of amusement I have at work when people ask something and I say of the watches done when it leaves. This is because on vintage oftentimes problems won't show up until the watches much farther into the repair like it's now running and you discover things that you can't discover before because it wasn't running to discover them that also become sometimes difficult to have exact rigid prices are estimates of repairs or in the case of a pocket watch you may not find out if a casing problem to later on when you case it up in the watches running. I was just thinking for all those people that would like to leave a mark maybe you should learn to do what some of the past watchmakers did? Leave a mark but leave it in such a way that no one will ever find it? Typically not done for repair purposes but done for other reasons like identifying it's legit. I have a friend with a Gruen watch and one of the Roman numbers the bottom line that just looks like a line under extreme magnification actually says Gruen watch company or something equivalent. So here's a link showing how to mark your watch without being seen although that's not the actual title. So if you can learn micro engraving you can engrave the watch someplace probably just about any place you just have to remember where you put it. https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/how-to-prove-if-watches-are-authentic-secret-signatures-182516  
    • I have acquired a Citizen Leopard 36000 watch. My reason for purchasing it was my desire to own a timepiece with a 36,000 BPH movement, and the price was reasonable. Another motivating factor was gaining hands-on experience with the mechanism. The watch is in good condition, but I intend to fully disassemble it for maintenance. First and foremost, if anyone has prior experience with this particular model, I would greatly appreciate their insights. I do not have access to Citizen’s specialized lubricants and will need to use the ones available to me, such as 9010, 8000, and 8300 grease. Additionally, I do not possess the appropriate oil for the pallet jewels and will only be able to clean them.
    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
×
×
  • Create New...