Jump to content

Best Amazon Lamp for Watchmaking


Recommended Posts

Problem solved. My initial lamp was not rated for dimming and worked for 10 seconds vs 45 Years on the box. Returned it and went to a different store where I picked up an industrial shop lamp and fixed to an overhanging shelve. Then I bought an inline dimmed switch that is where my desk lathe switch is and it all works like a charm. The light can be adjusted to 10% and at 100%, I could get a tan. Here is the box and shots of installed location.

image.jpg

image.jpg

301369F1-E443-4043-8C46-650878450BCD.jpeg

C8ADDED6-6364-4609-B066-52373BEDEC31.jpeg

69641C66-66D2-4313-BCDA-80BBA0ED7240.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

OK I know I'm an old fart, desk top computers where not around in my days. Why do you need not just one monitor but two?

Only 2, amateur.  My home office setup has 4.  For work I use 1 for my code, 1 for what I'm coding, 1 has the log messages and the last is used as overflow if I need to reference code from another project or watch youtube!

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually have 3 monitors. The third one is mounted on a laptop holder and is above the right monitor and is for work. I have a KVM switch to flip the big monitor to a work computer extension while my personal computer still shows on the right monitor...all by a remote control. I think I need two more monitors:). I am an Engineer so I need to out-nerd my friends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, AshF said:

Only 2, amateur.  My home office setup has 4.  For work I use 1 for my code, 1 for what I'm coding, 1 has the log messages and the last is used as overflow if I need to reference code from another project or watch youtube!

That is a lot of coding. If you code correctly in the first place, only one monitor needed:)

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

So there nothing to do with horology. A funny place to keep such things. I would have thought you are using valuable space and it makes it easier to misplace parts. 

Also why I try to keep things neat, it's much easier to find those springs on a tidy desk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...