Jump to content

Anno 1640 Waaguhr oil


Bauertime

Recommended Posts

Hi  A lot depends on the type of wood, Lignum Vitae is a dense wood and has its own oil,  Most of the wooden clocks were black forest made usually of pine (the local wood). Pine is by nature a resinous wood in its new state but as time goes by dries out  so some method of lubrication is required. I have used petroleum jelly (Vaseline) just thinned with a little oil applied sparingly as excess will gather dirt.  No lubrication will wear out the wooden pivots in no time.   Linseed oil is a wood preparation oil used on dry wood and cricket bats to good effect. but again just enough to do the job and no more.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't use linseed oil. It's a drying oil. The triglyceride decomposes, and the free fatty acids react with oxygen in the air to form a hard plasticky resin (haven't had my coffee yet and it's been years since I dealt with triglyceride chemistry, so the technical term is not coming to me at the moment... maybe it'll come to me in a few cups). That's why it's used as a wood finish after boiling to speed up the breakdown process, historically was what made patent leather shiny and brittle, and used to be the main component in japanning (a durable black finish often applied to cast iron). 

Speaking from a chemistry perspective with out much in the way of practical experience lubricating wood, you'll want something with long, fully saturated carbon chains. Lard would have been used to lubricate wooden shafts historically, though I'm not sure about in a clock setting. Coconut oil might be a reasonable vegetable derived fat. If the oil being solid at room temperature is problematic, neetsfoot oil has, IIRC, 18 carbon bonds, as does olive oil. Both were used as machine oils in the early industrial era. I'm having a hard time thinking of any others that are heavier, readily available, but aren't solid at room temperature. Jojoba oil I think is a good one. Being fully saturated will make it less likely to break down and go rancid (which is why hydrogenated vegetable oils were used to keep packaged food from going bad before people realized it was bad for you). I'm having a hard time thinking of any readily available fully saturated oils off the top of my head at the moment...

Edited by spectre6000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are the pinons and pivots all made of wood. Do the pivots fit into wooden holes or into brass bushings. If the answer is it is completely made of wood then clock grease is to be used. If the pivots are steel and fit into brass bushings then I recommend Windles clock oil.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
×
×
  • Create New...