Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All!

I have purchased some cheap lume and it is rather difficult to mix. Grainy and the binder is super thick. Any suggestions for some that may night break the bank. Would like to try the Bergeon but not in the budget for now.

As always thank you !

Gary

Posted

Hi Gary, if it is the same as the stuff I have been using the binder will be water based. I suggest you just keep adding water a drip at a time from a small screwdriver until I get the density I want. The last Lume job I did was the hands on the Mondaine watch that I recently posted on the forum, and that is how I went about it.

Posted

I like the Anchor lume .It's has a very bright lume and works nice . Only thing that is bad is the binder . I use "humbrol" model paint instead . Matt  or semimatt varnish . Or do you call it laquer?  I am not a great lumemaster but prefer the Anchor before the Luminova . You could mix it with other colors to . The binder in Anchor is thinner or something like it based . 

Posted

Geo, Rogart63:

 

Thanks..this is what I have but I haven't found any information on the binder. Checking with the seller.

 

Thanks again!

 

Gary

Anchor Lume.htm

Posted

Same shop i bought mine . Smell it ! if it's waterbased it doesn't smell much .

Smells like model airplane, car glue!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
×
×
  • Create New...