Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Dear all,

 

I need a "how-to" for this kind of jobs:

 

1. remove the e or c clip from pushers (mainly those that expose them clips when well...pushing them...third hand?)

 

2. remove the pressure pushers after the clips are removed (without damaging them, specially on old, maybe semi rusted tubes)

 

3. what measurements are usually taken when ordering a generic replacement pusher?

 

4. Same as 3 but for the tubes.

 

I appreciate the help for this topic and thank you in advance. Really need the help here guys!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

PS. Working mostly on (ebay) kinetics and quartz seikos and citizens...but also on an old swiss army that doesn't look "legit"...(not in their model database).

PS 2. I have the horotec press for pushers but I'm not too sure I've figure it all out yet as far as how to use it...broke and reordered some bits!

Posted

Hey brother :)

 

Here's how I've been taught to do it mate.

 

1 - Put a small piece of Rodico behind the pusher/circlip to stop the circlip pinging away when it releases.  Then hold one end of the circlip with a pair of tweezers, and gently push open the other end of the circlip with a screwdriver.

2 - The circlip should open up enough to slip around the pusher and lodge into the Rodico.

3 - To re-install the circlip.  Place a small piece of Rodico on the flat end of your Pegwood to secure it in place whilst working with it, and firmly push the rear of the circlip back home over the pusher.

 

Below are my pathetic pictures to help illustrate the procedure ... "I'm a watchmaker; not an artist Jim!!"  **in the voice of Bone's from Startrek**

 

post-246-0-63991100-1424463719_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Thank you Lawson, it is definitely an excellent guide and what I was looking for.

 

I'm working on a couple of chronometers -- actually 3 -- and the pushers are in really bad shape. I suspect I will have to replace at least one. Do you know off hand what measurements are required when ordering those? I suspect that case number for one of the watches is not going to work...looks like a fake! Just good practice on these types of cases, and 2 of them are nice quality and brand.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted (edited)

Hi rogart,

 

Thank you for the answer. This is watch I'm trying to restore:

 

post-253-0-03789100-1424536253_thumb.jpg

 

 

And the problem I'm trying to solve:

 

post-253-0-12305100-1424536263_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see, one of the pushers is bent...also I'm missing one of the clips.

 

The information I got from my supplier is:

 

post-253-0-41996300-1424536271_thumb.jpg

 

"Pusher, Friction, Yellow, Diameter 3.50mm, Tube 2.00mm, Depth 2.00mm, Length 3.00mm"

 

The cousinsUK description is also cryptic to me! :)

 

The pushers illustrated -- borel (mine) and CousinsUK (link) -- don't seem to be the right one/picture...

 

I also need to know how to identify the clip so I can order another one.

 

Thank you in advance for any help provided!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Edited by bobm12
Posted

That doesn't look like any part from cousinsuk or your supplier . Can you give me a picture on the watch where the pushers should sit . Crown side up .

Posted

Hi rogart,

 

Here is a picture crown up, what you marked with a black circle is the tube if I'm not mistaken...I'm not too good at pushers yet!

 

post-253-0-38062500-1424544366_thumb.jpg

 

post-253-0-11401100-1424544369_thumb.jpg

 

Or maybe part of the case? ...

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

This parts that i have marked green are a part of the pushers . They are either pressed in or screwed in place . They are the part which i marked in red before .. My guess is that they are pressed in . Could be trouble trying to get the out . Drill ? .

 

 post-644-0-20424200-1424550330_thumb.jpg

Edited by rogart63
Posted

Ok, I see then, so...then the question would be where to measure to order new pushers. It is not clear from the suppliers data.

 

Also, there is a matter of getting the springs and clips...but I don't see anywhere to attach a clip from the supplier's picture...

 

Please, advise. Thanks,

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

I don't think that that is the correct pusher Bob, there is no groove for the circlip. It looks like the type that are held in with a small screw in the end of the pusher.

Posted (edited)

There is many types of pushers . The one that the supplier has is probably a screwed type .Like in the video dow under . II don't think you can find a upper replacement that looks and fits exactly in your watch . You have to change the whole pusher or have a button made . The one that is bent .or you have to drill out the part i show you in green . This video is not the pressed in but it show the principle . The pusher in the video is screwed in the end but could just as well have a circlip . press it in and put on the circlip .

 

Edited by rogart63
Posted

Thank you rogart. That video really helped. I will find a solution as you suggested and post the results!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm currently working on a Citizen 4520 movement. This has to be the smallest and weirdest quartz movement I've ever worked on. Firstly, it's small. Really small. Here's a picture of it next to a LR44 battery for comparison.  And unlike conventional quartz movements, the construction of this movement is really weird. The moment I took off the top plate, the rotor and 1st wheel are exposed. The PCB is right on the bottom plate. There are no dial side components and cover plates. Everything goes in from the rear. Not sure if I'm able to fix this watch. The old battery leaked and there are battery juice crystals everywhere. And there is a 1 uA constant leakage current, which will drain the tiny battery in no time. But at least there's still a pulse and the rotor twitches.
    • Afraid this is where it could get down to old school adjustment and observation. There are pallet setting tools..but the calibrated ones aren't cheap. The observation holes in the plate will allow you to see if you have one or both stones hanging up/ not engaging on a tooth, That would ofcourse require you to disassemble, heat/move the jewel in/out as required..by eyesight and experience. It's truly trial and error until you get close enough that you could make small adjustments with the banking pins until they drop to the lock freely. You can use a Potence tool to help hold the rok in place during reassmbly. Here's a pic of one...made with a piece of old 18s mainspring You just fold over a roughly 2 inch piece, then file a slot on the end that engages the pallet fork arbor
    • It least you know what to order. 
    • Haha, tell him you're supposed to fill the pool with water before diving.
    • That could be another sign it's up for some TLC. Perhaps too much, too little, or the wrong type of grease was applied to the barrel walls. Perhaps it occasionally slips too much, which could explain the funny initial timing machine readings. Thanks for the input! On second thought, probably not, as it was doing perfectly 24 hours later... Hmm... Perhaps there is some debris floating inside, getting caught and uncaught between some teeth and pinion leaves!? If there is one thing I’ve truly learned over the years, it’s that you must be extremely meticulous about cleanliness and observant of different types of debris that can end up in the movement, such as dust, skin flakes, clothing fibers, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...