Jump to content

ST36 hairspring attachment to stud weird

Flubber

By Flubber
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Flubber Watch Enthusiast

Flubber

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all, me again.

I've taken Mark's course and bought two ST36 ( ETA 6497 clones) that I use for practice and experimenting. Today when I was assembling the movement and checking if the impulse pin was in the correct location the hairspring detached from the stud. I checked on the other movement to see how the hairspring is attached to the stud and the balance cock. It looks as if the hairspring is glued to the stud with some sort of paste that is quite hard. It is not attached with a tapered pin that is inserted into a hole with the hairspring.

My question is what I'm looking at. Is the hairspring glued or actually welded somehow and how may I fix it ?

Edited by Flubber
Clarification and spelling.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

I don't know that movement, but most modern movements have the hairspring glued at the stud. When they de-glue from cleaning I usually use 2 part epoxy (Araldite for most continentals), 5 minute, to reglue. Last one I tried UV glue as I know the guy and if it doesn't work longterm it's not an issue.

They aren't supposed[/] to unglue from normal cleaning but it happens.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

Gluing hairsprings is not a new practice. The Elgin watch company pioneered this it was done to avoid stressing the hairspring. Traditionally a pin is used and that can distort. Modern methods Use various forms of laser welding or other welding.

Unfortunately the Chinese were not as thoughtful as Elgin and their glue has a habit of disintegrating if you attempt to clean the watch more than a couple of times. Epoxy should work fine probably best if you could do it in the watch because the stud will be in perfect alignment with the hairspring. Unfortunately there's not a lot of room to work.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • oldhippy
      Hermle 340-020 slowing down as days go by

      By oldhippy · Posted

      From the photo the pallet arm looks as if it has been tampered with the edges are not nice and straight this can cause problems on the banking pins. 
    • DirkP121
      Hermle 340-020 slowing down as days go by

      By DirkP121 · Posted

      Update, I discovered that I could change the mainspring by removing the arbor and sliding it out from between the front and back plates. So I put a new mainspring in. This it what I  get over a 7 day period After winding                                          amplitude is 1 1/2 turns plus a few degrees.                                                                        ie just over 1 1/2 turns. 1 day after winding     gained 1 sec      no amplitude check. 2 days after winding   gained 1 sec      amplitude 1 1/2 turns                                                                                                              i.e. it lost the few extra degrees 3 days afer winding    gained 3 sec     no amplitude check 4 days after winding   gained 5 sec     amplitude 1 1/2 turns                                                                                                               i.e. unchanged 5 days after winding   gained 7 sec     no amplitude check 6 days after winding   gained 16sec    amplitude just over 1 1/4 turns 7 days after winding   gained 24sec   amplitude 1 1/4 turns. From  Based on video inspection, I am getting full pallet lock. So, my data seems to be at odds with the statement "swing of a balance wheel has nothing to do with the rate". However, I have noticed the banking posts are not controlling the lever position on the right side.  I may have some work to do here.
    • RichardHarris123
      Crown Snapped Off - Armani Renato Watch

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I can't tell whether or not some stem is stuck in the crown, I  think so though.  If the crown is stainless steel you could try alum to disolve the stem of try drilling it out. If all else fails, buy a new crown. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Very useful Video

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Does anyone use the x5 eyepieces,  when i use them on my different amscope , the magnification changes to x5 but the field of view remains exactly the same as the x10, so nothing gained. The optical lenses can't be swapped out or at least they are not available as far as i know. 
    • mikepilk
      Very useful Video

      By mikepilk · Posted

      I think maybe we're all a bit dim @ManSkirtBrew 🤣 99% of the time I'm working with the 0.5X Barlow, so mags from 3.5X to 22.5X. When I need a close up of a pivot or jewel, I take the Barlow out, and even put in the 2X Barlow, but it's a nuisance. So like you, I had that D'oh moment, why don't I just use 20X eyepieces (WF20X/10). They take seconds to change, and you keep the working distance. The only downsides are lower field of view, and less brightness.  
×
×
  • Create New...