My current project: Jacques pocket watch

[KarlvonKoln]

An old & close friend brought me his father's watch...after some other "repair" person's apprentice got done with it.  It was supposed to only get a cleaning. He insisted on springing for parts and supplies, but largely it's my favor to him. I couldn't charge labor on top of what they put him through.

This shop assistant (I'm guessing) didn't appear to know how dials came off. The base plate seems to be marred from prying. The dial was fractured and divoted where that foot was located. And that foot has the tip broken off, and that foot screw was missing when I received the watch. Hmmm.

It did not get the cleaning they charged him for, I can tell you that. Nor did they polish the case, per request. And I think they tried to patch the dial with UV resin. I believe the movement once had an outer..."case ring" is it called? I may have to obtain or fabricate one, so that the movement is not too loose in there.

I found flakes and grit from shattered "porcelain" face enamel in the setting linkage.  So the movement got a complete strip and clean, fresh silicone grease, and fresh oil. It now runs as smooth as silk. I polished the case also, and even the chain.

Now I just need to fix the dial foot, get a replacement screw, repair the face better than I've ever done (pray for me, 'cause that'll be the hardest part) and likely make a movement/case ring. Still some fun ahead. I may have to add a short vid at the end once it's all back together, looking and functioning as well as it ought. It's basically a late-1880s ebauche, possibly from Schild, that Jacques branded. Stem wind/lever set Swiss straight line lever.  I haven't looked up the case yet. Fantastic for a mass-produced movement. 

 

Edited July 8, 2020 by KarlvonKoln
Edited for clarity

[oldhippy]

Its a pity the person didn't take it back and told them to put it into the same condition as when they took it to that incompetent person, they should have sued them. Because of the damage  they have inflicted on that watch they have removed any value to it. The movement is called a 5 bar movement and are normally Swiss made. Good luck with what you are willing to do in helping your friend, not an easy task. I look forward to the video if you record one. 

[KarlvonKoln]

7 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Its a pity the person didn't take it back and told them to put it into the same condition as when they took it to that incompetent person, they should have sued them. Because of the damage  they have inflicted on that watch they have removed any value to it. The movement is called a 5 bar movement and are normally Swiss made. Good luck with what you are willing to do in helping your friend, not an easy task. I look forward to the video if you record one. 

"Five bar".  I think I've heard that before; and looking at the movement I get it now.

I think my friend didn't take it back to that shop to undo the damage simply because he no longer trusted them, and wasn't sure they could correct it.  I do not know why (or if) he chose not to sue.  But the other puzzling thing, as my friend related the tale, was that the head jeweler/repairman of the shop handed this watch to his (then) brand new apprentice to service. Why would he do that?  I mean, sure, this is no Patek Phillipe or Vacheron Constantine, but doggone it, man, it's somebody's prized Swiss watch that they're paying *money* to have serviced!  If he didn't care about the watch, he could have at least cared about his own reputation. As I see it, the point of a "repair" shop is for devices to leave in *better* condition than when they went in. Or, if that's not possible, no worse than they went in.

My friend and I go way back.  This watch is deeply important to him. Therefor, it is deeply important to me. Whatever skill I have I will pour into restoring it at full measure.  And I see that's what I should always do.  It seems right.

[JGrainger]

That's terrible.. I believe a similar thing once happened to my grandad's Zenith.. and my grandma's Accutron gained a quartz movement at some point.. eventually I'm hoping to replace the dial / install another Accutron. It's frustrating to see these things happen - good luck in getting this sorted for your friend.

[KarlvonKoln]

I await the arrival of some enamel from Esslinger specific to porcelain watch face repair.  And while I wait, I practice. I have learned that those who restore porcelain dials practice before each one (unless they do lots, and there's no long wait between). To practice on something the exact size and style of the Jacques' face, here is what I did: I made a plain-paper copy at 1200 dpi of the dial.  Used Wite-Out on the "IIII" and a few other numbers and partial-numbers.  Made a several copies of the Wited (?) Out copy on glossy photo paper (since it has about the same gloss as the watch dial).
And now, as the other restorers use, I am getting out my Winsor-Newton 00 brush, my deep black drafting ink, and get back in the swing of this. It's been a couple or more years since the last dial. But (I hope) doing calligraphy and illumination as one of my other hobbies may help with doing this.

[KarlvonKoln]

*whew*!  I finally found a commercial site that still had the Bergeon 1590 dial repair enamel!  Turned out to be Timesavers.  Everyone is out of it right now (except spots on Ebay, where it sells for $17 and change but they also want $14.99 for shipping).  As soon as that gets here, I can get this project going again.

[KarlvonKoln]

Well, this old "Jacques" is running like new.  And the case is polished like new.  And if the face doesn't quite look like new, it at least looks loads better than its former fractured self.  I have, altogether done the best that I can do.

But I still can help feeling a pang of disappointment. I wanted that dial to be perfect.  I know it's a tough skill to master, is dial restoration.  I also know I have quite a few years left in me to learn and get better.  But I wanted perfection for my friend.  In glancing at the time, it will look fine.  However, bright light tells the tale of a repair. It also didn't help that the drafting ink I used to repaint the number was blacker than black.  I needed a slightly greyer black. Replacing the dial was not an option, not my friend's desire, for it was the only part labeled "Jacques" and the name was important to him.  I could not find an old spare face from this rarely seen or heard-of brand.

He does not have all too common a watch name.  But it looks better, runs excellently, and polishes up well.  I think he will be pleased even if I am still struggling with my shortcomings as a bit of a novice.

Edited July 23, 2020 by KarlvonKoln
Edited because weirdness ensued.

[KarlvonKoln]

Update: my friend was pleased.  The Jacques runs steadily and keeps good time, and looks bright and shiny again.  He even appreciated that the dial has a numeral IIII again and thinks it looks better than it did (can't argue there).  Calling this job finished.

[watchweasol]

A very creditable repair job well executed, Unfortunatley some "professionals" are either unable or unwilling to do the same .  Once again brilliant.