Jump to content

Recommended Posts

From ebay auction to cleaned, serviced and on the wrist in just over a week.

The latest 404 club offering. As expected it has a Soviet era  Raketa 2609.HA, and as is often the case, it arrived filthy and the crown wouldn't turn the hands.


It actually arrived a couple of days ago, but I hadn't had a chance to look at it.

Since it was raining today, I had a day off from trying to keep the garden under control, and  gave it a full clean both inside and out, and some home brew tractor oil and vodka mix and off it went.

OK that's a slight exaggeration, but I did decide to treat it to the witches brew neatsfoot and baby oil, rather than the good stuff,  so it also joins that unfortunate bunch, all of which are still alive, despite my dastardly experimentation.

It is now sporting a new old stock 18mm black leather Apollo band. 

The leather on this batch of Apollo straps was a little dried out when I grabbed them as a job lot of four (also for <£4.04)
Neatsfoot oil on its own was used to wake up the leather and it now actually feels really soft.

I wont bore you with my limited set of servicing pictures. Instead, I'll point you to Marc's full strip down and rebuild of an identical piece here. ->

Thanks for those, they have proved very useful with several of these 2609.HA pieces.

I rather like the look of these, in fact I have another one on its way, also picked up for a pocket money price of course. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Think this should just about qualify?.. this job lot of 6 'dead' Accurist movements + 1 case was £12.85 including postage (so less than £4.04 with $10 postage for the whole 6), 4 of them were ETA 2390

Here is the watch that started it all. A Sicura "Voyageur" 17 jewel Ronda automatic.

@AndyHull and I have been chatting, and we think it's time to formalize the 404 Club. 404 is the HTTP standard response code returned when a file (page) is requested and not found. You've probably see

Posted Images

On 6/20/2021 at 12:56 AM, LittleWatchShop said:

Gots to me one of dem Russian watches!!  I was watching one a day or so ago and let it slip by.  Ebay is forever...so I will get one.

Well worth picking one up.

The most common issues are keyless work problems as described in Marc's servicing post. One or two I've looked at were so badly gummed up with junk and corrosion that it needed great care to free them up without breaking anything.

That and obviously the usual gummed up old oil and attempts by people with fat fingers to fix things, resulting in screwed up hairsprings.

Also watch out for the shims under the balance bridge. Sometimes there are none, sometimes one, and occasionally even two of them. They are easily overlooked when disassembling as they tend to stick to the back of the balance bridge or the main plate unobserved, only to then fall out later and get lost.

I think these USSR era watches are quite under rated and often overlooked, but with a little TLC they spruce up very nicely and if correctly serviced they run very well too. They are also pretty easy to service as there are not many parts, and no "gotcha" springs or weirdly constructed complications to deal with.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to post
Share on other sites

After a handful of those symbolically jeweled pin lever movements, you start getting picky. I got one with that exact movement somewhere. Pretty sure I borked the hairspring. 404! (my watchmaking version of shouting "YOLO!")

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

A little uninspiring.  It does run though...kinda.

2021-06-21 20_44_38-Photos.png

The EB 8800 is the first movement I serviced. It’s also the first one that I broke (balance staff). 🙂

I like them ok. Easy (quick) to service and solid runners. I have at least 10 of them (half in Chateau/Lucerne jump hours).

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nucejoe has made some good points about the calendar mechanism. If the watch physically stops at least the hands stop and the secondhand keeps going that means the watch train is running it means that it's a disconnect between the gear train and our minute hand in calendar mechanism. The Canon opinion which I'm going but I guess is the type that snaps into a drive wheel. The drive wheel is driven by the gear train the Canon pinion goes on the post there is no friction there. If the friction between the drive wheel in the Canon pinion disintegrates which he can then with the least amount of friction like a calendar mechanism it just quit striving. The hands come to a stop the watch keeps running the secondhand keeps moving because it's independence of all of this. It should have been obvious when the watch was going to gather and you check the setting mechanism before you put the calendar on you would have noticed zero friction as a guess. Even now when you go into hands setting you'll feel like there's no friction at all. Then the reason why the calendar mechanism works when you manually rotate the hands is because the setting wheel is driving the Canon pinion directly which is driving the calendar mechanism and that our wheel and all of that so all of that will run from that we just will not run from the gear train running the drive wheel that's connected to the Canon pinion. But that's just my wild guess and then we throw in Nucejoe's possible calendar mechanism increased friction than we need to really isolate all of this or we can continue to guess.  
    • I am not sure if I correctly understand you here. Only the seconds hand keeps running or minute and hour hands do move too, in case minute and hour hands move and show time right, then the fault is in date change train including date jumper mech, but if it doesn't show time correctly ( appear to loose time) then its loose canon pinion. You can tighten a loose canon pinion, use grease to lube it, not oil.
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
    • always confusing when it's two separate watches but I'm going to assume they're basically identical. What was their condition before you service them in other words did have a problem before and the problem came after you've serviced or was the problems there before? Then timing machine results you do have a timing machine don't you? In other words what's the running condition of the watch like of the watches barely running that would be an issue for a calendar change   then you fix the problem? so I'm guessing we only have to worry about the 2778 then? Yes this is what happens when you have multiple watches with too much going on it becomes confusing. then it would be helpful to have a picture of the dial side components because we didn't memorize every single calendar change mechanism. one of the places to look is the Canon pinion assembly in other words to visit have enough force to drive the calendar mechanism? I'm having to guess because I'm not finding a good tech sheet that shows the parts. If it's a kinda Canon pinion I think which is the Canon pinion that slips into her presses into with friction with the wheel if it no longer has and the friction then a cannot drive the calendar but if you manually set the watch that drives the Canon pinion directly and everything should function. then if you two of the parts list it would be listed as canon pinion with drive wheel. .But it would be helpful in the picture just to make sure http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2778  
    • I think what the problem here is you're asking the wrong question. The question is what part number do I need so that I can end up with the correct balance? Or the correct balance staff for that matter? If you look at the second link it lists the parts for your watch. This is always where things get interesting? you'll notice for balance staff they list seven different ones. For balance complete they do show three but if you look at the part numbers there's only two. then I attached some images from bestfit online and of course additional problems perhaps. Notice you have lots of choices and probably only one that's right. then the physical bestfit book becomes interesting because is an indication that there are variations which is of course why there so many listed in the images. but fortunately it looks like you want the basic simple one which should be 100/66.  unfortunately for the third link it's out of stock. then providing this is the right staff number I snipped out a couple of more images of the bestfit book which is what the dimensions mean and the dimensions. One of the irritating things of the physical book is on the dimension chart if you're trying to find a particular staff you just have to be lucky to go through the list and find it it be really nice if they list of the sizes by the numeric staff also. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=U\ZD]J http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.151223/.f  
  • Create New...