Jump to content

Casio divers watch hands not moving, digital works


Recommended Posts

I need some advice on two Casio AMW-320R divers watches.  They have been living in my watch box for years and I finally decided to get them out and see if I could fix the one.  Allow me to explain.

One works perfectly, the other one the digital part works but the second hand doesn’t move.  In fact, it could be all three hands may not move, I’m not sure because I didn’t check before I started working on them this time and I don’t remember.

My plan was to take parts out of the good watch piece by price and transfer them into the one with the non-working hands to hopefully figure out which component was faulty.  Well, somewhere along the way of swapping parts, I got confused which part went to which watch and now both watches have non-working hands!  Hurray!  Progress! At least I accomplished something.  Now I really have two watches that are identical.

At one point, I had both watches completely apart and I’m sure I’ve got them back together correctly because I can see the axels (I know that’s not the correct term) of the gears through the top plate and can tell they are installed properly.  All three hands move by manipulating the stem and move around quickly when the watch is placed on a demagnetizer.  Just looking for some idea of were I should start.  

My gut feeling is it’s likely to be more electrical than mechanical, as maybe I shorted something out taking the battery out with my tweezers or something?  That’s the only thing I can think of.  If anyone has any suggestions what I can check, I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Volvodr66 said:

At one point, I had both watches completely apart and I’m sure I’ve got them back together correctly because I can see the axels (I know that’s not the correct term) of the gears through the top plate and can tell they are installed properly.

Is this the first watch movement that you have taken apart? Isn't that easy to re-assembly them correctly, even for quartz modules.
 

5 hours ago, Volvodr66 said:

All three hands move by manipulating the stem and move around quickly when the watch is placed on a demagnetizer.  

If the pulse doesn't get it restarted, chances are the module id done with, that's not uncommon at all.
Maybe that's a good occasion to move on to a mechanical watch.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JDM, I’ve taken apart a few movements before but only for general cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner an nothing in the line of diagnosing any type of faults. Also, these were just practice watches as well.  Thanks for the reply.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite common for the coil on these to go open circuit. There are two different variations of the movement, one like the one in your pictures with two buttons on the side opposite the crown and another one with one button on either side, no electronic movement parts are interchangeable between the two. It's easy to check the coil for continuity, with a multi meter once yo lift the circuit off...You might be lucky with one watch with a duff coil and the other with a dead circuit.... The resistance of the coil, out of circuit should be around 2k ohms...

Edited by JohnD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Volvodr66 said:

JohnD, I think you’re right on with this one.  Both coils are open. Now I just need to see if I can find a place to source them and then see if the other electronics are okay or not.

Thanks.

If there  is no obvious signs of corrosion on the circuits they are probably OK. The vast majority of O/C coils are due to ham fisted battery change attempts, where the coil is nicked with a screw driver......

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...