Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello. Sorry if this question already has been answered, but I didn't know what to look for. 

I recently cleaned a certina 28-10 and it was keeping excellent time. The next morning I noticed it had lost a lot of time (about 40 seconds) and I put it on a timegrapher. The accuracy went from +4 to - 40.. I then re-regulated it and a few hours went. I then checked again and thw same problem had occurred. Only this time it had only gone from +5 to - 20. 

 

I also noticed that sometimes the amplitude drops to about 170 and the beat error goes up to 10ms for a few seconds and then returning to normal again. You can see that in the picture. This has happened several times. What could be the cause of all this?

IMG_20200526_155951.jpg

Edited by Bopmd
New headline
Posted

Is this in a particular position? I think (and I'm still pretty new at this) it looks like the balance or hair spring are hitting/rubbing on something. For it to register as beat error, I imagine the timegrapher would have to have seen a fairly sharp noise, so I'd suspect hitting rather than rubbing. However, I think hitting would be more likely to make it run fast than slow, whereas rubbing would be more likely to slow it down. This is where it'd be nice if the timegrapher gave you the actual audio/trace rather than a beep/click. Check end play, and remove the balance cock/bridge to see if there are any tattle tale marks where it's hitting/rubbing.

Posted

I had an experience recently where a watch was experiencing similar problems. After MUCH looking I finally found the lower hole where barrel arbor rests was oval and barrel had lots of play. I happen to have a old movement so I switched the parts to the old movement plate and problem was resolved. So, I guess my reply is to see if barrel arbor upper/lower holes are worn and causing excess play and wobble.

Regards

Posted
On 5/26/2020 at 7:06 AM, Bopmd said:

I recently cleaned a certina 28-10 and it was keeping excellent time

We need a clear clarification of what cleaned means? In other words did you fully disassemble it did you change the Mainspring?

At 170° everything gets magnified so don't worry about the beat error it's only because the amplitude crashed and burned.

I assume the watch is currently cased up?

 

 

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Certina_28_10

 

Posted
On 5/26/2020 at 7:22 PM, spectre6000 said:

 

Everything seems to be fine now. The accuracy is not receding anymore and the rest seems to have stopped. Sorry for the late replies and thank you for yours :)

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...