Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

I am following the video lessons with an Elgin 303, and ran into an issue.

The click screw will not budge. The other movement screws have been no issue, even the crown wheel screw, which was counterclockwise. Before I possibly strip it, though, which I don't want to do, I was wondering if I was missing something extra that is unique to older movements. 

Thanks again all. 

20200513_072339.jpg

Posted

Hi Adam  I suppose you have tried the counter clock, Therefore we assume its just seized. Two methods which are not invasive are heat and the penetration oil, Probably the only time WD40 can be used on a watch.  The heat method is to ude a soldering iron with a broad to heat up the screw so a to break any rust/corrosion which may have occured or alternativly a bit of WD40 on a blade and put round the screw and left to soak, or make a reservior with rodico round the screw and fill with WD40/penetration oil and again leave to soak at least 24hrs.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

You may have to give the pentrating oil 48 hrs, soak for longer period nearly gurantees success. If the jewels have no chaton, you can just drop the bridge in some Coca cola, that two needs a good soak 48hrs, attack with a well dressed screwdriver, you will be surprised how easy it unscrews after a long soak.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

The heat method is to ude a soldering iron with a broad to heat up the screw so a to break any rust/corrosion which may have occured

 

Would it not be better to heat up the plate around the screw so that it expands around the screw rather than the screw expanding into the plate? That's what I'd do with most other machines, but I can imagine issues with the much tighter tolerances... Heat application with a soldering iron tip is also more precise than a torch....

  • Like 1
Posted

Heat is the last resort, since it can warp the plate, the least it may discolour the screw. I always soak the piece in coca cola for a day or two, have not broken a single screw yet, try it on a pratice piece, you be surprised.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I don't suppose that the click physically is still functional? Because of it is I would just leave it alone. 

then as nice as WD-40 is for some people they actually make penetrating oil for screws. Conveniently I can't find the stuff that we have at work comes in a white syringe. The stuff at the link below should be equivalent.

http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Kroil-Penetration-Oil

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I always soak the piece in coca cola for a day or two, have not broken a single screw yet, try it on a pratice piece, you be surprised.

The active ingredient for this purpose found in Coca Cola is phosphoric acid. It's the same active ingredient in a variety of rust removal products. On the one hand, it may be one of the least expensive and most readily available sources for phosphoric acid in relatively low concentrations, but there's a lot of not-phosphoric acid in there as well. If you can get your hands on a proper rust converter, it may be a better option. Not all rust converters are good for watches though. I like to use Evaporust when I restore cast iron tools and the like, but it will convert more types of iron oxide than just the red flavor, including and especially the critical blue... Turns everything black. Found that out the hard way.

Edited by spectre6000
  • Like 2
Posted

Thank you all for the replies. I think for now I'm going to leave it be, as I should be able to remove the rest of the watch with it in place. But I'll probably try the wd40 or coke in the future.. wouldn't have thought those were safe,  myself..  :)

thanks again all

Posted
I don't suppose that the click physically is still functional? Because of it is I would just leave it alone. 
then as nice as WD-40 is for some people they actually make penetrating oil for screws. Conveniently I can't find the stuff that we have at work comes in a white syringe. The stuff at the link below should be equivalent.
http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-lubricating-oils/Kroil-Penetration-Oil
+1 on Kroil. I have used this stuff on rust-siezed automotive bolts that after a few minutes turn easily. It's really freaky.
  • Thanks 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...