Jump to content

Cyma & 2 Cheapies - All Due For Replacement Crystals


WillFly

Recommended Posts

I've mentioned my Cyma purchase on the forum a few weeks ago. It's a very nice watch but is in need of a new crystal. I got hold of a couple of real cheapies recently - an Elco that needs a clean, and a Rodania that's running nicely. They also need new crystals, so I'm off to see my mate Derek in Bursledon (Hampshire) next week to get them sorted. He has boxes and boxes of crystals which he's had for years, plus the right gear for extracting and replacing. And we have coffee and cakes and chew the fat about watches and other stuff for a couple of hours - always a nice morning out. A composite pic of the 3 below. The Rodania movement pic is not mine - the case back's an odd looking beast with tiny holes in the edge - might even be a snap-off posing as a screw back - so I'm going to take his advice on that one. And the Elco is gunged up and needs a clean.

 

post-64-0-17434800-1422539228_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed they're a useful tool. I think the problem might be that, because I get crystals changed so infrequently (I usually buy watches in pretty good nick) that the problem might be getting the right crystal just when I needed it. As I've seen with my own eyes, you can try and fit one which looks the same and has the same measurements, but which may not be quite right. The blessing of a good stock is that, if the one chosen isn't quite right, there are others which might do. There's also the question of profile as well as size - flat, domed, high sides, etc.

 

If I did them regularly, then I'd probably tool up properly for it. Like I do with watch straps - where I have a large stock of lug pins of all lengths. At the moment, I get crystals changed as and when I need - and combine it with coffee and cakes!

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can't really tell from the pic, but the Elco crystal is badly crazed (a bit like it's new owner), and the gashes in the Rodania are quite deep. I've used PolyWatch in the past and never been entirely happy with the result - perhaps I wasn't doing it correctly but I was always conscious of a slight cloudiness after treatment. Not a huge amount, but noticeable, all the same.

 

The Rodania is running smoothly and to time - and it's another one with an interesting case back! There are some very tiny holes in the top of the case - close to, but not actually on the edge - and I don't have an appropriate tool to get it off to photograph it. But my pal does - he's been doing watch repair as a hobby for 40 years and is a dab hand at dealing with most problems. The only thing he won't touch is chronographs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think the polywatch is ok for cleaning but my method is 1200 wet and dry go across the scratches in straight lines no circles then go at right angles to this, now it looks terrible or should do if you've done lt right, now get the brasso out and polish it upbe careful not to get too much on the bezel, lovely job works everytime

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brasso is great for watch crystals, I always keep a can in my workroom but I mostly now replace with a new crystal

whilst on the subject is there any sort of Ref works for crystal sizes, so you can match up a crystal to a certain/specific

watch. Would be great if there was such a book... 

 

 

Best Wishes

 

 

Darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 3 crystals were replaced by my mate Derek yesterday. It was interesting to see it being done. He has a large stock, bought years ago, plus the correct measuring tool, holder and crystal lift. The Elco and the Cyma were quite straightforward, but the Rodania (flat domed) was awkward. even after measuring the old crystal, he had to try three before the right one actually fitted (276 if you want to know!). The point is that, if I needed this doing this regularly, I'd buy the stock and the tools, but it's just not something that I need on a regular basis. Anyway - pics of the Cyma and the Rodania...

 

post-64-0-37288600-1423140496_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-44194000-1423140810_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Precisely what I thought when I bought the Elco and the Rodania - from the same dealer - on eBay. There were no bids on either watch because they looked so **BLEEP**, but the movements seemed quite pleasant so I thought, "What the hell - why not?"

 

Got them both for £20, including postage. The Rodania case back was secured by a screw ring which had the most incredibly fine holes - too small for any of my case tools - so Derek found a pair of pliers with very fine tips, fitted the tips into the holes, and off came the back!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's some pics of the Elco Bimatic - the cheapie that had a crazed and yellowed glass and needed a clean - after the clean and glass replacement. This is a nice ETA 2370, 21-jewel movement and now running beautifully. The case is a tad worn, but what do you expect for a tenner?

 

post-64-0-77171300-1423589594_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-80422900-1423589597_thumb.jpg

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...