Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So im unsure watch the correct term for this ratchet is.  Its purpose is to hold a certain amount of power on the mainspring in a fusee pocket watch when the fusee is run down.  

So i go to start working on this movement which i disassembled a few days ago.  I had everything neatly organized in small lidded containers.  Low and behold this ratchet was missing.  Of course i looked everywhere but we all know how that worked out. Haha.

So i made another one.  I found a piece of steel off a junker gustav becker movement.  Filed it to the correct thickness.  Used my jewelers saw to cut out the shape.  Halfway thru that, i drilled and reamed a hole to the correct diameter for the screw.  I then finished cuting it out.  I filed the edges to shape.  Sanded it and blued it.

Mine is the first pic.  Not as delicate as the original, but not a bad remake. I dont think

A 3 hour mistake.  Working on clocks for years i have lost my share of parts.  I try to keep everything enclosed and well organized, but it happens.  On my first pocket watch too, no less20200423_150032.thumb.jpg.8041ebdfa298a0310b3c4e288b2ce8a5.jpg.  Haha. 

 

 

20200414_180327.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Good job! Setting the preload on those I feel is a lost skill. I've worked on a couple fusee's and had a heck of a time setting those correctly and still wondering if they were right. I think it may be an issue of feel that comes with experience and training on those specific movement types.

  • Like 1
Posted

When the chain is unable to move with your fingers that is telling you the chain is at the right tension. If the chain is slack around the barrel it will not wind on the fusee cone correctly. It is simply a trial and error. Just be very careful with the chain as you do not want it to twist and snap in bits.   

  • Like 1


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am looking for guidance on some Cyma watches I am selling please...Year made approx and possible worth if you could? Also I have a man's Cyma that has numbers stamped around the case where the strap bars are and wonder what they are please. Thanks for and help given. Steve
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • I agree with hector it's probably the regulator curve, it almost always is on these movements. So i work on these movements a lot and iv'e managed to fairly consistently get them running at like 50 degrees more amplitude than that with deltas in the 3 range and on the wrist deviations of sub 1 second a day. They ALWAYS require work to get there though. The main thing is shaping the regulator curve and this is really finnicky and definitely something you practice on a movement you don't care about when you're new (I'm still new) but if the hairspring is flat and the coils are evenly spaced and the regulator curve is properly shaped and it's pretty wild how accurate these movements can get.  But, it does sound like your regulator curve maybe needs a bit of reshaping. You can easily mess up the watch learning to do this so warning if you don't want to live with your current results but I"m not an expert, it's just speculation but there's a pretty easy way to check.  This is a good video showing how to see if your terminal curve is properly shaped. Just make sure the regulator pins are open when you test this.   He takes off the balance wheel to shape it. I do it with the movement disassembled but the balance on the mainplate. I use a homemade tool from a sharpened dental pic to do the adjustments (Tiny tiny TINY adjustments) and i use the regulator pins themselves to sorta brace the spring against to bend it very tiny amounts and just keep checking it by moving the regulator arm down it till it stops moving the hairspring. Taking off the balance wheel over and over again is a good way to slip and destroy your hairspring and will make the process way slower. I try to avoid removing the balance wheel from the cock it on these movements due to how difficult it is to get the hairspring stud back into the balance cock. It's super easy to slip and twist your spring then you got way worse problems.  Since these are mass manufactured and unadjusted the regulator curve is NEVER perfect but once you learn how to reshape them it's pretty easy to do and you can get REALLY low deltas with really low positional error and pretty remarkable accuracy.  Definitely with it powered down and the balance on the movement with both balance jewels in place look across the spring to see if it's perfectly flat, then check the regulator curve how he does it in the video. I would bet money even if it's not your main issue the regulator curve is not ideal also. 
    • Thanks. Damn, first breakage. This picture of the movement is from the sale listing.  
    • Hello all, New member here, hoping  to gain knowledge about something that has been of interest for years.  Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...