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Magnetized Illinois PW Hairspring-IThink


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I had this Illinois PW that had really poor amplitude and just got around addressing this. Along with the hairspring issue, somehow I must have put the Seconds Hand pip beside the Second hand pivot instead of on top and did not notice, causing it to stop and run slow. Felt like an idiot when I noticed it after fixing the magnetized and dirty hairspring. All good now and really good amplitude. Here is the watch and movement and the YouTube video I made.Enjoy

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Very nice thin movement by Illinois. Is that a green gold filled case? I once had an A. Lincoln model in a green gold case. Really nice. Great initials and case decoration. Looks like a rather special make to me.

Minor point: While Illinois did make a Marquis Aristocrat, yours is a Marquis Autocrat.

Make sure it never has a staff problem, as they are very unique. At least I think this is the same model that has the roller-table riveted to the balance arm. I believe there was a 1st, 2nd, and 3rd model of the Autocrat. It is very hard to see what's going on with it. I have an Illinois model 439 Extra-thin model, which is different but shares some parts, that had the roller-table broken off. I was lucky to have found a parts movement to get a balance out of. Unfortunately, the parts balance has a bad staff pivot on it so it needs to be removed. The problem is in getting proper support to the roller-table while you drive the friction staff out. I don't want to break the balance or the replacement staff that I was also rather lucky to find, methinks. My staking set doesn't have the stump with the angled slot that is narrow enough to work. This movement has been a real head-scratcher. Still in the "to-do" pile.

Thanks for the video. I loved the way you used the slo-mo video to check the amplitude. Nice tip! Cheers.

 

 

 

Edited by MrRoundel
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Very nice thin movement by Illinois. Is that a green gold filled case? I once had an A. Lincoln model in a green gold case. Really nice. Great initials and case decoration. Looks like a rather special make to me.
Minor point: While Illinois did make a Marquis Aristocrat, yours is a Marquis Autocrat.
Make sure it never has a staff problem, as they are very unique. At least I think this is the same model that has the roller-table riveted to the balance arm. I believe there was a 1st, 2nd, and 3rd model of the Autocrat. It is very hard to see what's going on with it. I have an Illinois model 439 Extra-thin model, which is different but shares some parts, that had the roller-table broken off. I was lucky to have found a parts movement to get a balance out of. Unfortunately, the parts balance has a bad staff pivot on it so it needs to be removed. The problem is in getting proper support to the roller-table while you drive the friction staff out. I don't want to break the balance or the replacement staff that I was also rather lucky to find, methinks. My staking set doesn't have the stump with the angled slot that is narrow enough to work. This movement has been a real head-scratcher. Still in the "to-do" pile.
Thanks for the video. I loved the way you used the slo-mo video to check the amplitude. Nice tip! Cheers.
 
 
 

Thanks for the feedback. I have a roller table removal tool that works great in allowing the staff to be free while supporting the table. I also have another roller table removal tool where it supports the table and has three stakes that you use to tap it out. I’ll take a picture of these.7d54944f7270dacf654089afec43586c.jpg


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Thanks for the tool tips. Some of the difficulty is in supporting the roller table without breaking the roller jewel. As you can see in the image, the safety roller is part of the staff. It's a bugger. Illinois_Watch_Company_1923_Material_Catalog_PWDB_Digital_Archive_-_2020-02-19_11_49_37.jpg.857e4e7ea8e8fbd00986e4dd07d069ed.jpg

Is the safety roller or full roller the same material as the Staff or a real part of the staff. If so, you would need to turn the roller table in making the staff.


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Yes, if one was to make a staff for this watch they would need to turn that safety roller into it. It doesn't show in the image but there is a crescent cutout. I was able to find a staff for it. However I am still hung up on removal, as it's too easy to destroy the balance if you get too aggressive. If I can find an image I'll attach it in a while.

The roller table itself and the "spacer" between it and the safety roller are one piece, and well riveted as to be part of the balance.

 

 

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Yes, if one was to make a staff for this watch they would need to turn that safety roller into it. It doesn't show in the image but there is a crescent cutout. I was able to find a staff for it. However I am still hung up on removal, as it's too easy to destroy the balance if you get too aggressive. If I can find an image I'll attach it in a while.
The roller table itself and the "spacer" between it and the safety roller are one piece, and well riveted as to be part of the balance.
 
 
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I think I get it. You don’t have a pinch roller remover do you. It goes between the top of the roller table and where the balance fits on the staff.


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Thanks for your responses, JDRichard. Do you mean the scissor type? The one I have isn't quite thick enough, I believe. One of the problems is that most roller removers, if used as designed,  will break off the roller jewel. As you can see, this roller jewel is gone on this one. The hole in the table is at about 12:00. I may take another look at the scissor/pinch? remover I have to see if it might help. Thanks again. Stay safe out there. Cheers.

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    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
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