Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all!  So I have always been a fan of the Spaceview Accutrons so when one came up for sale in my small town I thought I would take advantage of the opportunity.  Overall I would say the watch is in decent condition, but scratched crystals tend to get to me a little bit.  Just curious if someone might have the part number for the original yellow dot crystal as I don't want to put a reproduction on.  Also, I see a lot of the yellow dot crystals for sale that say they are luminous and mine does not seem to be.  Did some have the luminous crystal and some not?

ACCUTRON.jpg

Posted
20 minutes ago, Stevelp said:

 scratched crystals tend to get to me a little bit.

You can easily polish the original without even removing it. Search this forum for the many topics on the subject. 

Posted

I have had success as well with things like polywatch.  I figured because the inner workings on the accutron are so interesting and tend to be a focal point all of the somewhat deeper scratches that are left behind to me would still feel kinda obvious.   

Posted
1 hour ago, Stevelp said:

I have had success as well with things like polywatch.

That is for acrylic crystals only. Glass needs wet paper and diamond paste. Again, the details are in other topics.

Posted

That is certainly a plastic crystal and can be polished perfectly as a matter of general maintenance, if it's original it would be a travesty to change it out. Gorgeous watch and yes some models were luminous and some were yellow painted. Don't change it, they're different models and all original configurations are relatively rare. I'd rather have that one with a nicely polished orig crystal than with an nos crystal that's two weeks away from looking like the one you just polished anyway. :) 

  • Like 1
Posted

vinn3 you are absolutely  right it is acrylic.   I know some people say that scratches and bumps and such add to the watches character and patina and I don't debate that but if I can I like to start fresh.  But being a bit more or a rarity I think I will give polywatch a go and see what kind of result I can get.  Upon inspection it seems that this crystal has the painted dots and not the luminous dots.  Ill keep you posted on the results.  Thanks everyone for the input!

Posted

Just a bit of an update.  After a number of rounds of polywatch (both inside and out, just as many scratches on the inside of the crystal as the outside) I think things turned out extremely well! 

ACCUTRON 2.jpg

  • Like 2


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I tried pushing to dome the washer in and had no success, but stuffing it full of o-ring gaskets worked much better than I expected. It takes some pressure but not as much as you might imagine, but it does take patience ... and a couple of dozen small gaskets. I used the pendant tube of a watch case to stuff the gaskets in as I didn't have a way to machine a tool to suit.
    • I can't answer your question, sorry, but you probably don't what to transfer the spring to a new wheel. Springs and wheels are paired ("vibrated" together) to get the right timing and transferring the spring to a new wheel is quite likely to see you minutes per day out with no way to correct it. Some may tell you to replace the balance staff, but if you're a beginner you're probably better off sourcing a replacement "balance complete" if you can: staff, roller, wheel and spring already assembled as a unit.
    • I'm sure it's the ancien. My measurements: A = 342. The slight bend in the pivot would make much less than a thousandth of a mm difference to this so I don't think 348 is plausible unless there has been significant wear on the pivots. B is hard to measure without first removing the balance wheel. I measured to the other side of the balance wheel as best I could (263) then subtracted the thickness of the wheel (69) to get 194. This could easily be three or four hundredths out, so 195 looks right. (196 could also be right.) J couldn't be measured. I did my best to measure where the balance wheel has been riveted on and got about 95, so 85 before riveting is plausible. (60 is not.) G again couldn't be measured without first removing the roller. I get 37 where the staff emerges from the roller so 41 at the other end of the taper seems plausible. (43 is also plausible to me.) K = 60. (Definitely larger than 55.)   I've never replaced a balance staff; it'll be a new adventure for me. I'll have to read up on how to maximise my chance of removing the old one without damaging the balance wheel without having access to a lathe. I also need to explore how to remove the roller without damaging it. I won't actually place an order until I've gone through the rest of the movement. With the number of issues I've already found, I'll be amazed if I don't have more surprises in store. There are some watch part suppliers in Australia but nothing like Cousins or Otto Frei or Jules Borel. AllTimeCo is fine for basic parts for modern watches: batteries, bands, some crowns, stems, seals, movements, some tools, etc., but not really anything for vintage watches. Australian Jewellers Supplies is similar. Cousins charges about £9 for shipping to Australia which is about AU$19 and not too bad (considering Australian parcel post is $11) but I still want to minimise the number of times I'm paying it. I need to explore other options closer to home. There may be something in Singapore or China that would have what I want and ship it faster/more economically.  
    • Hi, I just finished the service of a Rolex 3135. Amplitude is great, 295 degrees horizontal after 2 hours and 280 after 12 hours. Vertical positions are 25 degrees down on those. I am however seeing a rate variation with temperature. I have 0 SPD on wrist, say 38 degrees and +7 SPD at 18 degrees room temperature. That equates to +0.35 SPD which is within spec I believe (+-0.5 SPD/ Deg C max). It just seems more than I would expect from such a high quality movement. To put that in context, I see similar rate variation with temperature for a Seiko 7S26. Just wondering what you guys see. Thanks, Steve.
    • For years I've done it the el-cheapo way (read: cleaning by hand). Bought a 2nd Elma S15(H) ultra-sonic, including proper cleaning-fluids (Elma WF Pro (cleaning) & Elma Suprol Pro (rinse)) and entered a complete different cleaning world. These cleaning fluids are none-water based and not that easy to obtain. Initially I bought these fluids in Germany "SKSONIC" (www.sksonic.de) but last year they stopped shipping international. Perhaps they resumed international shipping? You can always ask them. You could also ask @VWatchie, he lives "next-door". As for the fumes; I use the ultra-sonic in my garage, partly for the fumes, but more for our dog ...... he goes "bananas" when I switch on the ultra-sonic. Oh, next on your list (if you consider watch-repair as a long-time hobby), a Microscope (up to 50x is enough).  Pegwood leaves, observed under the microscope that is, whole tree-trunks behind 🫣 Ultra-sonic, in combination with proper cleaning fluids, takes care of the cleaning.
×
×
  • Create New...