Christmas Presents - What Did You Get?

[Geo]

I'm out of options to open them.

 

In fact, I was thinking about a really heavy duty back opener and the horotec popped up in my mind....now with what Micky said, I'm a little reticent as to spend the money in that tool. I'll be very grateful to hear a full report from you on that one!

 

The one I have is for snap on backs, not screw backs. :-)

[SSTEEL]

@Bob, what I have had to do in a couple of instances with very very stubborn screw down case backs is, I kid you not, superglue a M3 nut to it, leave to cure for 24 hours, and then using a spanner to carefully unscrew the case back.  Once removed, you can soak the case back and nut in acetone, and it will clean up fine afterwards.

Edited December 27, 2014 by SSTEEL

[Geo]

M3??? Seems a bit small Micky. :-)

[bobm12]

Thanks Micky, I was just thinking about superglueing something to those watches just wasn't sure what size of nuts. I have a feeling it is going to be a big one! I'll post a picture later.

 

Thank you Geo, I thought we were talking a bout a screw back opener. I suppose the Horotec may still be good. I wish someone would talk about its pros and cons before I commit.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[SSTEEL]

Sorry, wrong M, I mean't one of these.. M8 (loupe for size comparison).

 

DSC03758 by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

17MM Spanner, and removes any rust solid screw back in my experience.

 

I tried supergluing a metal ruler to one case back but it was stuck fast!  Cleaned the area, and etched the mating surface of the above nut, applied plenty of superglue, left for 24 hours, and then with the 17mm spanner (ring), carefully unscrew squarely, and it will remove it.

Edited December 27, 2014 by SSTEEL

[bobm12]

Thanks Micky, I'm doing it now! I'll report back the results!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[SSTEEL]

Good luck, just remember to not be shy with the superglue, and don't be tempted to try and undo the nut until 24 hours have passed.

[bobm12]

Excellent, I will. There is a small problem, one of the watches has an exhibition back so I will have to go to the hardware store and find a nut big enough to just bind to the metal edges. More on this when I come back!... and I'll probably get the strongest, meanest superglue I can find too.

[Geo]

Remember to thoroughly de- grease Bob!

[bobm12]

I will Geo, thanks, lots of detergent, ronson fuel and alcohol ready! No short cuts here believe me!

[BlakeL]

Here is a picture of everything I got. I'm also thinking of buying the TimeZone level 1 course with the cash I got to learn proper techniques.

[SSTEEL]

Nice.

 

I have completed the TZ courses and can highly recommend them, they are a valuable asset to have, and the stages offer slightly discounted correct, and professional watchmaking tools for each stage, so you get to know the tools needed for the specific work as well as get to know the movement better.

Edited December 28, 2014 by SSTEEL

[bobm12]

I support Micky's opinion since I did the same too and I'm very satisfied.

[Lawson]

BlakeL, on 29 Dec 2014 - 02:04 AM, said:

I'm also thinking of buying the TimeZone level 1 course with the cash I got to learn proper techniques.

 

 

TimeZone?  :huh:  Sounds like a chain of video game arcades we have in Australia.

[bobm12]

LOL, yeah Lawson, we have a mall arcade here that somehow, with a little inspiration and flexibility could be named like that! In any case, GameWorks almost sounds like TimeZone, doesn't it? (Just be "inspired and flexible" if you will).  :)

 

Those courses have an instructor who is very experienced -- Machiel -- who also teach in his country. He used to work for a Swiss watch company in Switzerland. Thoroughly recommended. The linked, official "sponsor and supplier" is ofrei. Maybe because of the connections they might still have from the old country (I believe they were watchmakers that came originally from Switzerland, maybe Borel too but not completely sure, there is a biography on line I read once but forgot the details).

 

Considering you are not required to buy your own tools and stuff, the price is amazingly reasonable (per course = $75, 3 of them). But you need all three if you are new to this (of course YOU are not my friend), in order to fully take advantage of "beginning" watchmaking with some rigor.

 

In any case, it is a great resource for on line learners like me!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[bobm12]

By the way guys, I made a little walk through of how the backs came off at: http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1287-stubborn-screw-in-back-how-tomaybe/

 

Thanks for your help and advise!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[BlakeL]

I'm going to purchase the course tonight. Hopefully the 2 5 packs of NOS swiss movements I got off eBay will be sufficient for the course.

[bobm12]

Good choice Blake, you will have enough with those - they will probably do for Level 1. Level 2 treats automatics so you might want to "upgrade" later on.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[Don]

Since I've been buying myself "presents" i.e. watch tools since May, I didn't really get much at Christmas time. However I'm blessed just to have my wife and kids.

I'll put in my .02 for the Time Zone courses. I've finished the first and started the second and would unreservedly recommend them.

Happy new year to all of you!

[DrRock]

With those TimeZone courses, how specifically do they refer to the ETA movements they recommend? I don't need to buy their toolkits, as I already have more than enough. And I've ordered some of those $9 movements from eBay - would they be able to be used in place of the ETA ones? Would I be able to figure out the differences as I progress?

[bobm12]

Hi Pete,

 

I took all the courses. I strongly recommend to at least have an ETA 6498/6497, ETA 2801 or a FE96 at hand for the first level to work on. I believe that once these simpler movements become clear and you had experimented enough with them (or with the one of your choice), you'll be ready for more complicated stuff. I personally chose the 6498 because it is a bigger movement and size here has a number of advantages for the beginner. Eventually I'll revisit this level but this time with a 2801 and then convert it into a 2804. Any Chinese imitation may not be fully compatible but some people have use them, IMHO with mixed results since parts are not totally interchangeable and you have to allow for the odd lost/damage part. Those need to be reordered...and that's the prize of learning.

 

I also believe that the ordering part is useful too since eventually you will need to learn how to identify the parts and where/how to get them, considering prize and availability. So, this exercise is also valid. 

 

Level 2 will move you into an automatic watch so there you have at little more work in addition with the cleaning and oiling introduced in the level. Quite good I should add.

 

Level 3 will then introduce the Demagnetizer and Time Graph machines, troubleshooting and more.

 

It is the combination of all 3 levels (about US$225) that really give you the foundation. One advantage is that this is one time payment and lasts forever according to them. There is a very knowledgeable instructor available that will help you through your classes by answering your questions, giving you techniques and tricks, and guiding you when you get stuck on something.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[SSTEEL]

I couldn't put it better myself Bob mate, spot on, especially starting out with the bigger type movement like the 64XX range.

[DrRock]

Thanks Bob - an excellent and thorough reply with lots of good info! Appreciated.

So I'll use the el-cheapo movements from eBay to muck about with on my own, pull them apart, etc. And I'll try to get one of the movements you suggested for doing the course.

 

The only problem is that those ETA 2801 and 2804 movements seem to be well over $Aus200 each - for something that may well be stuffed up, or at best shoved in a drawer once the course is done.

 

Do you know of any sources where they can be bought for much better prices - even used ones? Or copies?

 

Seems a lot to pay for one movement - about the same as the whole three courses. I understand that a good movement is not cheap - and that would be OK if it were going into a watch. But this would only be used to do the course, and then just put in a box.

[bobm12]

Pete, you will have a full watch when you finish L1. The case and other details will be also available. Only it is totally your watch. Just a thought.

[DrRock]

Yeah, I guess so. But "operating" on an expensive movement as the object of the first lesson is a bit like me doing your coronary bypasses as my first operation.... What happens if it all stuffs up? ;)