Jump to content
Flubber

Sweden calling.

Recommended Posts

Hi,

All my life I've been interested in watches of all kinds. I started watching videos about watch repairing on YouTube and ended up taking Mark's online course. Before I new it I had bought some tweezers and two China versions of the UNITAS 6497 to tinker with. Great Fun !

Hope I'll see you around

/P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Clean and check winder module, treat with epilame fixdrop, be prepaired to replace the reverser with new. Good luck
    • A techsheet helps and thanks to watchweasol will be furnished, If the caliber is made known,  otherwise taking pix as you disassemble is helpful. No shortage of help and advice here. Good luck
    • Hello dear watchmakers. I have a Tissot automatic chronograph watch with C01.211 (which is based on Lemania 5100). The one and only issue I have with the watch is that when I try to hand-wind the watch, the rotor rotates violently, shaking the whole watch. I have an another Tissot chronograph with the same movement and it winds very softly without any shaking. I am about to take my hands on this watch to fix it. Could anyone give me a tip on fixing the issue I am having??  I am quite new to chronographs and a little tip would sure be a great help. Thank you. 
    • a important thing to remember about amplitude is as it drops below 200° everything gets magnified. The beat error increase is you can end up with a hugely dramatic beat error just because the amplitude is low. You can't really worry about timekeeping typically until your above 200° amplitude. Looking at your photographs a recommendation I would make is to hold the watch properly in the timing machine microphone. if the watches in its case then the way you're holding it is fine. But for movements usually works better if you turn the watch over as the dial side usually has a nice circle to grab and you make sure it's in the notches of the top of the microphone. This usually gives you the very best pickup and avoids other unpleasant things that can happen occasionally. looking at the balance wheel outside of the watch like you did can be helpful but it's really best to be a look at the hairspring in the watch. Because that's where the problems going to be not outside. Sometimes when it's outside of the balance leans a little bit ill change things. Then if they hairspring was outside of the regulator pins perhaps just touching that definitely is going to give you some bizarre timekeeping so it be much better if it's in the pins word supposed to be. Then stopping is definitely an issue for timekeeping in amplitude and everything else. as for looking at your numbers we had limited information due to the amplitude falling below acceptable number. The beat looks fine so that's okay. Dial-up and dial down a very a little bit they really should be identical. But as it's used watch the balance staff pivots could be an issue also lubrication could be an issue. But no matter what the soon as you go to the pendant positions and this is why always have people or ask people to give me the specifications you're pendant positions totally suck if this watch is wound up. when you get your timing closer all give you the timing specifications of the watch and not good do it now ill just add the confusions. Except the watch companies obsession is with timekeeping and a tiny bit with amplitude. They get concerned if fully wound up its very close through past 300 they get excited about that. Then they could care less until 24 hours later the amplitude has to be greater than or equal to 200° typically. So you are definitely having a problem with this watch and that needs to be resolved with the balance wheel out of the watch and the pallet fork out of the watch do you get back spin? not all watches will do this but if you start the wind the watch slowly you could do it fast but it makes it easier to see slowly. The train will start to spin when the train is spitting nice you stop winding the momentum of the train will continue to spin until the main spring winds down and it will actually wind the mainspring a little bit backwards. So if you're looking at the train spinning you will see it stopped for a moment and it will now spin backwards from that energy. Usually this is a sign of a free train. Sometimes it stops so fast you don't see a chill just noticed that the escape wheel is turning backwards when it comes to a stop. If you wind your watch and the train doesn't start spinning right away that's an indication of too much friction the same as if you have to really wind hard to get the train the spin that's definitely a fraction. out of curiosity what parts did you change in this watch and what was missing?      
×
×
  • Create New...