Jump to content

Hi From Down Under

DrRock

By DrRock
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

DrRock Watch Enthusiast

DrRock

Posted
Posted

Hi from Brisbane, Australia :)

 

I am a surgeon, and have a moderate collection of watches. After spending a lot of dollars over a long time on battery changes to minor repairs and cleaning, I finally figured that I ought to be able to learn to do the basics myself.

 

Let's face it - my occupation involves using instruments from large to micro, and I do need a very steady hand (which I have). I don't even drink coffee or other sources of caffeine, due to getting the micro-tremor that looks like an earthquake when trying to operate under the microscope! So I should be able to do my own battery changes and basic tweaks.  I hope ;)

 

I just posted a couple of Newbie Questions to the forum, but I suspect I posted them in the wrong section - I put them in the "Watch Repair Tutorials and Information" section, but I think they should be in the "Watch Repair Help and Advice" department. If the moderator is able to move the post, I would be most grateful. And any help or advice on those questions would also be much appreciated - thank you in advance.

 

So, pleased to "meet" you all, and grateful that there is such a wealth of help and learning to be had here :)

 

Pete, Brisbane (aka DrRock - don't even ask...) ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Welcome to to the helpful house of horology Pete. I liked your introduction, it's always good to get to know folk, and a good introduction always helps. I'm sure with your skills and delicate touch you'll soon be doing a lot more than just fitting batteries! :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DrRock Watch Enthusiast

DrRock

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And thanks for the welcome, Geo and Mark - much appreciated.

 

Now, for that pain, Mark, I think an amputation should suffice. Then you could simply give me the cold shoulder (sorry - typical surgeon's black humour there).

 

--
Pete, Brisbane
============
 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DrRock Watch Enthusiast

DrRock

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mark - I've just watched your superb video on "How to service an automatic watch ETA 2824 Watch repair tutorial" and was enthralled by the delicate work and the knowledge you have of the various parts and movements.

 

I think I have a LONG way to go before I'd tackle something like that..!

 

One question - what camera do you use for these videos, and what lens? There are tack sharp close-up shots, and some at even higher magnification. Looks like almost as good resolution as the Nikon and Olympus operating microscopes I use at work.

 

Do you have the camera mounted on a tripod looking straight down on the work, or do you use a mirror?

 

Great stuff!

 

--
Pete, Brisbane
============
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
Posted

One question - what camera do you use for these videos, and what lens? There are tack sharp close-up shots, and some at even higher magnification. Looks like almost as good resolution as the Nikon and Olympus operating microscopes I use at work.

 

Do you have the camera mounted on a tripod looking straight down on the work, or do you use a mirror?

 

 

Canon 600D with 60mm macro lens pointing straight down on the workpiece. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the forum Peter!

 

I also used to play -- and still do at times -- classical guitar. Very fond of the Smallman guitars from the first time John Williams showed his to me (or maybe us...in a master class!) a very, very long time ago. Only, never tinkered with the instruments myself.

 

Now, I'm an avid watchmaker hobbyist and following Mark's excellent videos which are like master classes in their own right.

 

If you are in the mood for some "web training", I'd recommend the timezone.com watch school and the free Seiko 7S26 on line class. They are like a base to really incorporate the wealth of knowledge in our forum...and don't forget Mark's videos as a complement while you are progressing through those.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
autowind Distinguished Member

autowind

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the forum's DrRock,  I have the greatest admiration and respect for the medical profession as they have saved my life more than once.  You will find watches to be a never ending interest which can be both frustrating, when a small part disappears into the black hole and very satisfying when you bring one back from the dead as in Marks latest video. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Waggy
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By Waggy · Posted

      hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Mallard
      Vintage pocket watches from e-bay (winding stems needed)

      By Mallard · Posted

      Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Waggy
      2813

      By Waggy · Posted

      Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Murks
      2813

      By Murks · Posted

      Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Waggy
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Waggy · Posted

      Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
×
×
  • Create New...