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Posted

I pulled an old watch out of the drawer recently. I know it was a non runner when I acquired it a few years back and that after I stripped, cleaned, oiled and reassembled it, it did run. After that I just put it away and forgot about it. When I came across it I thought I might like to put a strap on it and wear it. It still runs but is losing about 2-3 minutes a day, and to me the balance doesn’t look to be swinging very enthusiastically. I don’t honestly remember if that’s why I left it in the drawer or not. Think I’ll just take it apart anyway and go through it again. Just wondered if anyone thinks it does look like it’s a bit sluggish, it’s fully wound.

@Squiffything What do you think of the pictures?:thumbsu:

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Posted

Looks sluggish. If you didn't replace the mainspring when you took it apart, I'd replace it. When did you last give it an overhaul? It is probably dry and running with considerable drag on the drive train. Also, It looks like the entry stroke of the pallet is occuring a little fast, so the beat is probably off.  Balance wheel looks a tiny bit wobbly. Give it an overhaul, replace mainspring, and put it on a time grapher to correct the beat error--that should improve things dramatically.

J

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hi Davey  If you have a time grapher put it on that and check the beat error and amplitude. If not remove balance and check the action of the pallet is it crisp when moved  banking pin to pin, also you can remove the esc wheel and put  a little power on the   watch the wheels run down there should be a bit of backrun as the power runs out.   If you have no timegrapher  have a look at Watch-O Scope the lite version is free to use but you need to build a small amp there  are diagrams on the site. I use it in conjunction with the Horotec unit to double check.

  • Like 1
Posted

I don’t have a timegrapher, it’s on the list!  I had a look and the balance cock appears to be a fixed pin, it’s not adjustable like other ones. I’ll strip it back and check power as I go along.

Posted

Hi Dave     Not a bad idea back to basics is what we were told and test at each stage for the power output untill the offender is found, check all the wheels on fitting for worn or damaged teeth as they can cause problems.  best of luck

Posted

I’ve stripped it down to this point and noticed that either the cap jewel is missing or doesn’t have/need one. Can anyone confirm for me either way. 

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This is the wheel that sits in it.

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What calibre movement is it, in case I need spares.

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Thanks for any help.

Posted

Hi    Dave Its Forster 187  Have a look at Ranfft forster 187.    By the look of the recess and screw hole in the plate I would say it needs the endstone although on Ranfft site the Forster 189 front plate shows otherwise but there is no recess in the plate go with plan A 

Posted

Yes, see what you mean. I’ve found an old movement with similar looking plates and end stones. I will try one in and give it a go.

Cheers 

Dave

Posted

I tried to find an end stone from another old watch. But looking at the jewel itself it has an oil sink, so I’m still not certain it should have an end stone fitted?  While I was on I thought I would check and clean the balance jewels. The upper one went ok but the end stone from the lower one has taken flight.  Most annoyed!  Apart from trying to find another movement, are endstones generic, just different sizes? I’ve measured the upper stone as best as I can and think it’s 1.10mm. Cousins sell an assortment that would last a lifetime. Think I might find one to fit among this?

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/jewel-holes-end-stones

Thanks all for any help.



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