Jump to content

Ice Watch


Kierri

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody!

I have an Ice Watch & it recently stopped working. I replaced the battery and it worked for about 12 hours and no matter how many new batteries I feed it, it won't work. Do you have any suggestions as to why and how to go about fixing it?

Many thanks for your help,

Kierri x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello @Kierri. Welcome to the forum. I'd be glad to try to help, but without a picture it is not possible. I found a video online that shows an ICE watch and it looks like the movement might be a Miyota maybe a quartz 2115? 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3VfmINJZ1E

Usually with watches of this type, its not worth fixing the original movement, as a new one can be inexpensively purchased. These Miyota quartz movements are widely used is such watches and are available through watch part suppliers, but before we cross that bridge we need to see a picture of the movement inside. You might not want to go through the learning curve needed to swap out the movement, but if you want to try, this is the place to be!

 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi , If you like to try getting the same movement run,You may try my weird methods.

If you can reach any gear in the movement with a toothpick. Try shaking clock/ counterclock.

You need a solvent of some sort, lighter fluid , automobile fuel....... 

Insert the battery in place, drop the movement in solvent for few seconds, remove and try to shake the wheel radially. Pushing the seconds hand forward helps too, the movement comes to life. You may let it run submerged in solvent for like twenty seconds at a time, remove let solvent evaporate.repeat.

Next would be to remove the hands and dial plate to gain access to both sides for  lubrication with any light oil, sewing machine, hair clipper oil..... send us pictures of the movement to mark for you  the hole to be lubricated.

Regards joe.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

Hello @Kierri. Welcome to the forum. I'd be glad to try to help, but without a picture it is not possible. I found a video online that shows an ICE watch and it looks like the movement might be a Miyota maybe a quartz 2115? 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3VfmINJZ1E

Usually with watches of this type, its not worth fixing the original movement, as a new one can be inexpensively purchased. These Miyota quartz movements are widely used is such watches and are available through watch part suppliers, but before we cross that bridge we need to see a picture of the movement inside. You might not want to go through the learning curve needed to swap out the movement, but if you want to try, this is the place to be!

 

J

Excuse my ignorance relatively new to watches. But if she likes the watch it's self. Would she not be better to try and put a different movement in it altogether. Like a midrange Seiko quartz's or something similar. Sorry again for my uneducated view. Or just get a midrange Seiko lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have done that when the original replacement was not available. However it is not straight forward getting the correct size replacement is the issue. The height and size of the replacement movement ,the hand size and height are the issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com  
    • I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
×
×
  • Create New...