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It's a good question. I was taught by old dudes to heat the living sh!t on my tweezers. The go-to were Dumont #8, and they are listed for exactly this use. They work great (heated) for larger pivots like extended 4th wheel pivots. For something like a balance pivot the #8 will pretty assuredly make some marks or flats. I do use them, but most of the time stick to brass/nickel with stout tips. I've tried going without heat, and broken more pivots. It isn't anywhere near tempering temperature, but it really does make a huge difference.

@Endeavor Hey, thanks for your kind words—they're much appreciated. It's absolutely great to see you back on WRT! I think of you as a long-lost repairer friend with lots of knowledge and smart ideas who returned! I know you have many other interests you explore, but I hope to see you around some more! Welcome back!

I haven't been on the forum for a while A family member had a 955.112 watch running with an intermittent fault. Bought a NOS 955.112 movement, but to be sure, I'll give it a full service. It has been a long time since I did the 955.112, so I went back to @VWatchie walk-through ........ Again, I'm struck by the quality of it Superb work

That is around 60-70°C, depending on how thick-skinned your fingertips are. I've always wondered if that really helps. It isn't hot enough to temper steel. Is it only to allay our fears of breaking of the pivot? And if the pivot breaks, we can console ourselves that we had tried our best. I normally put my soldering iron tip, set to 250°C, at the point where I wish to bend the pivot and heat it for about 30 seconds. Does that work? Honestly, I don't know. But at least that is at tempering temperature range. Have I broken any pivots trying to straighten them? Sure! But at least I've tried my best.

I straighten pivots like this routinely. Get the part running true in the lathe, not counting the pivot. Heat brass or nickel tweezers in alcohol lamp until you can barely hold them, and use them to coax into alignment.

Looks sideways at the drawer next to him.......

OP, try the following: When the watch has stopped, open it with extreme care in order to not make it start working. Then observe the balance. Is it rotated from the initial (zero) position and blocked? Such blocking is usually caused by the guard pin pressed to guard roller. Will it be enough to return the balance to zero position for the watch to start working?

Is that a bloody big pencil or a very tiny part. I think, I knew the answer.

Interesting the dangers of IPA? But it brings up a problem Elma recommends IPA as the final rinse in situations where the normal rinse will not evaporates. I've never actually looked at the programming of the cleaning machine as to how long it actually spends in the IPA it shouldn't really be that long. When I was cleaning watches at home I was using alcohol that the container it came in specifically said it would dissolves shellac and still never had a problem because the final rinse of alcohol is only supposed to rinse off the previous rinse so here in their? To be honest I never really times when I was doing it I would just put the parts in a beaker dump in alcohol swish it around the rinse it off and then put it right in the dryer. The problem would be extended time and especially if you heat up your alcohol that would speed up bad consequences. The problem with this choice of a cleaning product is it isn't actually for cleaning watch movements. https://store.elma-ultrasonic.com/en/products/ec-90 If you look through the discussion group I know we've talked about alternative cleaning products and? The problem with alternative products is experimentation is required. Plus the commercial stuff really works nicely but? We now end up with an interesting problem and watch repair which is environmental air quality for human beings. If you look at the quote above there is an excellent suggestion a box with ventilation system. If you look at the very newest of cleaning machines that's basically what they do they pull air in the machine so nothing gets out and it goes through a hose either outside or through an activated carbon filter.

My take on this: If your plan is to continue this hobby, try and get a machine or build one yourself and use "proper" liquids. Good ventilation is very important. One option is to make a small cabinet with a (bathroom) fan and a hose: Pocket watches are (only a bit) easier to work on because of their size, but often need more advanced skills. For instance, they often need a new balance staff or repivoting, have broken teeth, cracked jewels etc. You might be better off starting on wristwatches right away (mens, not ladies).

Its risky but sometimes do-able. I showed a technique in one of my old videos... Go to 0:46 (46 seconds in).. Be very careful Hope that helps.

Since the back can be removed, I see no reason for a split stem.

Not everyone at once!!! No worries. It's settled. At full wind, it was starting to run in the high 260s / low 270s (horizontal). After 24h, the lowest is 210 (vertical). Positional variation is very low (delta of 8 between all positions at full wind and after 24h). The lock on the pallets is on the heavy side (but not excessive). That may explain it. I'm calling it good.