Leaderboard

If you haven't got bent pivots or cracked/chipped jewel then the balance wheel is bent, not good for isochronism. I personally true balance in calipers and would suggest this is the best place to do it. There are two Truing processes, one in the flat and one in the round , always start in the flat first. Start at the balance arms always flat these first and then when the balance is true at the arms work your way round until the balance is flat. Small amounts of pressure can alter the flat quite easily, so no hammers involved!. Truing calipers are made for this purpose, the balance staff does not sit on the smallest pinion but sits on the first shoulder of the pinion. On good quality Truing calipers a hole is seen a short distance from the end of the bush, with a good loupe you can actually see into the hole and see if the pinion ends are straight themselves when the balance is turned in the calipers, just make sure the calipers are fairly tight up to the staff shoulders before attempting truing, you don't want to break the pinion so. There is an adjustable Truing gauge attached to all good Truing calipers, it's there for a purpose. You will notice a small vee in the Truing gauge, this allows you to miss any adjustment screws that may be in the way of the gauge when rotating the balance., Truing in the round is a different matter but still done in the Truing calipers. Best tool for this is a small flat notched lever bar. This sits over the rim of the wheel and is used to bend the rim inwards or outwards. It's specifically thin to get into the gaps between the adjustment screws. Always true from the top of the balance wheel, not the bottom. It takes time and can be frustrating, but with practice it's doable. Don't forget to check poise afterwards!.

Should push out or move with a gentle tap.

Nice watch, giving it to "one" of your sons may cause problems!

Okayyy......... From what I can see....... Top row left to right: 1. not sure. 2. bezel insert spacer. 3. 7S26-0050 case. 4. unknown crown & stem (might be for the 7s26). Mid row: 1. 4205 dial. 2. unknown grey movement spacer. 3. bezel insert. 4. bezel complete. 5. 4205 case. 6. caseback. Bottom row: 1. pepsi bezel insert. 2. 4205 movement spacer. 3. unknown black movement spacer. 4. not sure. 5. 4205 case 6.4205 caseback. 7. bezel with spacer & without insert. Cant be 100% sure but if you can post closer individual pics of the items I would be able to confirm what is what. You should be able to make up one 4205 from this lot with the addition of a caseback gasket, probably a bezel o-ring, movement, hands, chapter ring. crown and stem. Same extras again plus another movement spacer will give you 2, although it looks like the case on the bottom row is missing its crystal and gasket. Crystals are not a problem, however the gasket is another matter. As for the 7s26 it looks like it could do with a movement, movement spacer, dial, hands, chapter ring etc. Bezel inserts if properly made will snap fit, if not they can be glued in place. Bezels on Seikos are retained by a silicone greased o-ring that sits in an inner grove on the bezel just below the bezel inset & spacer. These are snapped on to the case using a suitable press but can sometimes be put in place by finger & thumb pressure alone. They are bi-directional with the click being supplied by tiny ball bearing on top of a spring pressed into the case under the bezel.

I am now in trial stage to be able to repair oyster and jubilee bracelets. I primarily talk about repairing the stretch and looseness in the links. Major injuries that required laser welding etc, have to wait until later. The tools that I have now is not from the shelf at Rolex or by the wholesaler. It is a toolmaker who has been kind to create some special tools that allows me to take the links safely apart, and that I can push them back together without creating damage. But they will not fix the amount of stretch in the links. The pins inside the bracelet is being sanded down after years of use. Muck and other stuff that get inside the links, is as abrasive as pins and link rub against each other. This allows both the links and the pins to ground down so the space inside the links gets bigger and bigger. It is said that the more often you clean the bracelet in an ultrasound cleaner, the better the bracelet stays nice and firm. For that gap to be repaired I must insert a tube on the pins that make the bracelet tight again. The links also have different size of the wear from one bracelet to another. There are also large differences in wear from link to link, so it needed a few different sizes of tubes to be used. These tubes are not exactly cheap in 316 SS so I waited a bit with the large orders for now. Regarding President Links I must first find me a jeweler who can help me to both acquire gold, but also can shape it for me to into the right sizes.