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It looks like I got this one wrong then! (Where's the embarrassed smiley when you need it)

This Harwood base movement has been stripped down, cleaned and oiled. The mainspring looks good. It is the A.Schild 8.75 lignes, 15 jewels 2 adjustments, used by Harwood from 1925 as a base for his first automatic watch. This automatic movement was an early one since the it does not have either the UK or Swiss patent numbers on the winding bridge. Later examples with these numbers can be viewed on the Ranfft site at: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Harwood You will see later on this assembled movement that in place of the patent number Harwood stamped: 'HARWOOD SELFWINDING WATCH Co. LTD', copying the inscription on the bumper (but with LTD instead of JLC)). I start the photo re-assembly from here to illustrate only the features particular to the Harwood. From its condition I suspect that it was either a prototype or a movement that has been used many times for demonstrations. Screw heads damaged and plating missing on some of the Harwood parts. The base movement A. Schild 8.75 lignes. No conventional stem for setting. Left: the winding wheels in place Middle: the uni-directional winding bridge (clic arrowed) Right: the bridge in place. (assembled by placing the movement down onto the upturned bridge with wheels and clic engaged). A little clockwise turn of the exposed gear wheel (arrowed) and the balance turns. Left the basic movement with intermediate wheel in place. Right: The setting gear. The large toothed wheel on the stem engages with teeth under the watch bezel and it is rotated by turning the bezel. Then the small pin set into the stem engages the cam face on the outer end of the castle wheel (Harwood calls it the crown wheel). This also has a rotating inset pin (as shown) that engages the lever to move a red flag (see later) that indicates the position of the castle wheel. The castle wheel moves inwards until the stem pin meets the protruding stop (see photo). The hand setting can the be completed. A short back-wind of the bezel releases the castle wheel. Left: The three parts of the setting mechanism in place together with the flag lever return spring. Right: The cover plate in position Left: The red flag in place. Right: The dial-side bearing plate and stud for the bumper arm. Left: The bumper in place with the end stops through which the stem is now inserted. The red flag is in the running position. Right: the frame that holds the bumper stops and setting stem to the movement. The red flag is in the setting position. Left: Back to the movement side showing the screw holding the stem in place. Right: the bumper and frame added. Left: The winding wheel (arrowed) in place. Centre: the underside of the winding bridge showing the pawl that turns the uni-direction wheel. Right: the winding bridge in place. The winding lever has a slipping clutch at the centre (arrowed) that prevents over-winding With a dial on the movement. Left: The red flag in the dial window indicates the running position. Right: The setting position. The watch is set by rotating the bezel in either direction. Then a back-turn corresponding to just 5 minutes of setting releases the crown wheel and the red flag appears in the window. The beat error was 0.1 ms and the timing error some second per day.

Hello Everyone, This is my first post here on the forum :). Regarding wave brakers - I have something like this:

Welcome Tore - I'll take the Longines! :D

After Geo's excellent recommendations, I now use gs hypo cement for most things watch related. Eg date wheel overlays, hour markers etc. Got mine off amazon uk

Hi rogart, I'm located in USA where there are a couple of suppliers that sell L&R. I get mine from ofrei, but esslinger sells them too and maybe others (a couple dollars more but may be better for export if allowed). I understand cousinsuk also have them but haven't really checked. Cheers, Bob

I love the collection Tore and the choice. With time it can only grow! :) Cheers, Bob PS. I have a feeling that Urika has a Seiko movement inside...the design is reminiscent of their models of the time. May be easy to fix and parts may be plenty....keep us posted!

Ken, I took the liberty to guess at your movement. Here is an as-like Illinois I pulled the plates on. Matches your movement, if not exact, the same family. Dial Side: Dial side 2: Barrel bridge removed: Keyless removed: Keyless exploded in order: Hope that helps :)