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As I have a timing machine obsession I've accumulated quite a few manuals. So attached is interpretations of the timing machine display. Fortunately whether it's paper electronic etc. interpreting the display is basically the same. There are though some examples where paper tape is nice because you can run along print out like in the PDF number 14. On the other hand with modern timing machines some of them and some of the software you can run a time plot and do the same thing better. Then you have to be careful when interpreting the waveform does as it can almost become like crystal ball reading subject to interpretation. Conveniently are not finding a manual lurking around here which has all sorts of bizarre display's that all start to look the same but have different descriptions of what the problem may or may not be. So the timing machine will point you in a direction but you still have to use good watchmaking skills To figure out what the problem is. Timing-Machine-Charts.PDF

Many times we tend to make absolutes in watch repair when it's not an absolute. So the effect of a magnetic field will vary modern watches supposedly are not affected. Yet I know of some professional shops where they are obsessively concerned about magnetic fields and Watchmakers are continuously demagnetizing their watches perhaps to the point of lunacy. Although the particular shop in question one of the watchmakers did a demonstration of the effect of putting a magnetic next to one of the so-called watch that can't be magnetized and there is a reason why they do what they do. So on older watches with steel hairspring if enough magnetic field is applied the hairspring coils conceivably could stick together shortening the hairspring and running abnormally fast. Images attached section of a timing machine manual explaining what a magnetic field could do to a watch. Then timing machine image the one with the sine wave was before the watch was demagnetized hen the other one is afterwords. This was a small 12 size approximately Howard pocket watch in desperate need of servicing which is why the amplitude is insanely low and the beat looks bad.

You have some small amplitude waves in the graphs with a frequency about 1/min suggesting that the minute wheel is not flat or something around there. But this seems a minor issue. Aplitude DU and DD is ok if it is freshly serviced. It will climb after a few full windings and working days. My mayor concern is about the bad rate and amplitude change in vertical positions. The reason for this can be worn/dirty pivots/hole jewels and/or distorted hairspring. Too much oil.... If the jewels and pivots are ok first check if the hairspring is between the and moving freely between the regulator pins at rest, it is flat and centered?

Found this wonderful Seiko 7625-8021 Sea Horse at a local estate sale for real cheap and had to snag it. It has the usual light wear and tear, but nothing that bad or that can't be buffed. The original band was busted on it unfortunately, missing the clasp, so I tossed on a temporary band (the only one I had that would fit it). It started ticking away right when I picked it up and so far has kept perfect time over the last 8 hours. After a few more practice watches I will attempt at giving this one a thorough cleaning, until then it may stay in the case to prevent running it dry for too long. Now for some pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I understand that. But have you tried taking a fine set of round nose pliers to reduce the radius of the first wind of the mainspring? You presumably can't change the arbor unless you want to turn a new one.

I also like it. Don't try to regulate it until it has been properly cleaned and oiled, you may well find that it runs perfectly after without much or any adjustment.

Luckily mine were on the balance cock and not the main plate. I used a fine flat file and had no issues at all. My mating surfaces were not finished so a light touch up with some sandpaper to remove the file marks was all that was needed. Ron

I'm only a hobbyist so please ignore any ignorance shown but in other threads when magnetism is referred too its always in the context of the watch running fast. I assume this is the hairspring becoming magnetised and the coils sticking together. Are there other parts of the watch that can be effected and what are the sort of symptoms displayed ? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

A interesting difference between a hobbyist and professionals. Hobbyist are limited by their tools professionals Ideally should have everything but usually don't. So if you're around professional shops professional watchmakers especially those working on upper end watches then they are very obsessed with Demagnetizing. So removing the effect of magnetic is a good thing to do because it shows up in a variety of ways and it's an easy thing to deal with rather than pondering all sorts of other problems that may or may not be there.

The lift angle you're showing is 51° by slightly off are you aware that it's around 42°? Link below for the lift angle. So I assume the timing results are with chronograph functions not being driven? Dial down is interesting in that usually when you see a variation in timing it indicates a power loss through the gear train or even the mainspring. So in other words you're not getting even power you'll then see variations in timing. But not see any other dramatic variations in all the rest your printouts? I see a little bit of variation but you're always going to have that the older watches. This is where if you are concerned about something like this running a long time plot may turn up the problem. Usually dial-up and dial down should be the same for timekeeping I'm wondering if your hairspring is rubbing on something and that's why you're picking up the extra dots and you're running fast perhaps? The interesting part is the pendant positions at a little less than 200° if the watch is fully wound up is definitely going to be a problem. 24 hours from now is the watch even going to be running? As soon as you add in the chronograph part it's going to rob a little power from the gear train and if you don't have enough power to run your watch. I noticed in the walk-through references to Rust perhaps? You want to go back and look at all the pivots and make sure they're shiny and smooth. Rust is interesting In that it actually is a grinding compound. So it's really not something you want on the pivots. Then yes it would be nice if the Beat was better but I worry about the other stuff first. Plus it be nice if we had four pendant positions but it looks like from the 2 you have a positional error in the balance wheel which I would not worry about until you get the pendant position amplitudes up to something more realistic. http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Under_the_Loupe/Landeron_48.html

I'm lucky I have repaired many of these movements so I know them inside out. The strike is rack striking more or less what you get in an Smiths strike only much bigger and better made. The gong is for the strike only, it chimes on the peal of bells but strikes on the gong. The pendulum swings fine, its a little miss leading but there is plenty of room.