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Is magnetism such a major problem that we (as home hobbyists) need to spend $$$ on a fancy demagnetiser? I use one of the cheap blue Chinese demagnetisers (£10 from ebay). It works, and has never failed to demagnetise a movement, or my screwdrivers. Magnetometer - who needs one? Take a very small screw. If it sticks to the clean part, it is magnetised

The pallet fork should really be called a lever, English lever, Swiss lever etc but most people including myself call it a pallet fork.

Yes, this is what I exactly ment to write in answer.

I think this is pretty typical when you have something that crosses many regional and international borders. @Neverenoughwatches yes Rich, that is the common way, learning from our teachers, however terms used in Yorkshire could easily be a lot different for tools, techniques or methods different from Scotland or Somerset. My (long winded) point is it all depends on where you first picked up the terms, if from books American watch terminology differs from English terminology and to a degree Swiss terminology. That also seems to extend to watchmaking schools. Confusing at first starting out but like anything else you get used to it. This will be why our long term members attach a glossary to new users introducing themselves as beginning their journey. Tom

My overall preference is to use traditional names and terms, that became my habit when i was taught joinery by old boy chippies 2 generations older than me , that had their time in the 40's. But what i often do is adjust the names and terms i use according to who I'm talking with. Sometimes i will say trainside and occasionally watchmaker's side. I try to find a balance between accommodating other folk ( there's no point speaking a foreign language to someone who doesn't understand it ) and using a name that appears to me to be more relevant as to its use or description. But using the name lever can be quite confusing, some watches might have parts that are also levers, release levers, which in effect is what the pallet fork is, an escapement release lever.

Yes, Timex was a global company right from the start. France, England, Scotland, Portugal, Germany and Switzerland were locations for parts and assembly in Europe over the decades.

a 1982 marlin - looks like it is missing the gold trim bezel -

Apologies for that, didn't know I was breaking the rules. Thanks for trying to help. Steve.

Hello, asking to buy something breaks the forum rules. I have edited your post. We will attempt to help you source one.

Maybe you got a badly wired one like the one I had. Can you feel the metal object vibrating when you press the red button?

Maybe you had a bad one H, the cheap blue one i use has been fine for nearly 3 years now. It demags enough to stop the tiniest of screws sticking to the carbon steel tweezers i use. If it were to fail at some point in the future i very probably would go up a level of device just because.

Lot of “industrial “ de magnifiers on Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004699640024.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=17858129175&albag=&trgt=&crea=en1005004699640024&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en1005004699640024&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcxIEVpMt1vFIKQyfjVwT95zrBsOi5dt-GgFOmLamBcMcu4tO7CfaaxoChnEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=b7140f118e144db7876d074872aec9cb-1716029308364-08531-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=b7140f118e144db7876d074872aec9cb-1716029308364-08531-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=6b7c60e41b044cb39d1431f62cda0958&afSmartRedirect=y a hard drive wiper/degauser would also be worth looking at. Tom

You definitely pick up different names from different people of all ages from everywhere. Like learning different dialects of the same language. Its all part of the learning curve of any trade. Both those two terms describe to me perfectly that they are one and the same. After a couple of years of knowledge you can figure out what is being talked about. There are times that i get caught out with something i haven't encountered before.

Mike, you have summed it up following the KISS principle. Tom

I've also heard it called the "top side" and the dial side the "bottom side", which should make any non-repairer very confused. There are many examples and sometimes it comes down to personal preference. Personally, I like to say "dial train" whereas most other people would use the term "motion works".

I agree, I call it a pallet fork for two reasons, it was the name used when I started watch repair both in written documents and on videos and calling it a lever causes confusion as seen. Plenty of other examples where there's more than one name. What do you call the opposite side of the movement from the dial side? I've heard you call it the watch makers side.

Nice interesting diver Razz, i have a sheffield dress watch, different movement altogether. Could be a wrong motion works part, how does the setting feel before fitting the cannon pinion, clutch and intermediate wheel meshing ok ? The less traditional setting design could be suspect, the second wheel has a slip clutch assembly, that most likely needs looking at. LA is 42 ° Razz Tbh i much prefer to call the complete unit the lever, then use the seperate names for all of its components. Such as guard pin, fork, fork horns, fork slot, lever arm, pallets , pallet arms, pallet slot, pallet stones. I suppose pallet fork is the combination of the two opposite ends that make up the lever, its also called the anchor which is descriptive of its appearance. Its a pretty basic 1930s swiss lever movement H and yes Nev was meaning the pallet fork.

I'm not sure what kind of movement this is, but I'm curious to know if you're using the word "lever" as a synonym for "pallet fork"?

Just picked this up earlier today. This find just about epitomizes vintage watch collecting for me and what really keeps me going. Hit 2 antique malls today and saw a couple of pieces at the first one but just nothing that I needed. At the second one saw a Accutron 218 but it was 20 minutes behind the actual time. These "malls" have numerous booths of a variety of sellers who likely go in once or twice a week. Considering that that watch should be within a couple of seconds a month, I figured it hadn't been phased so passed on that for now knowing it would need work to run correctly and the price tag. Then I found this Excelle in a display case. I never heard of the brand, but in was an auto and had a little heft. It turned out to be 40mm lug to lug, 35.3mm case width, and 12.3 mm thick. On the spiedel once size fits most flex band. At $10.80US with tax I immediately pulled the trigger with nothing to lose. Before pictures: I spent a nice 30 minutes taking it out of the case and running that through the ultra sonic replacing the crystal and gasket and recasing, but spent five minutes first getting it running close on the timegrapher. Had a new crystal already in stock. I probably could have sanbed and polished the old one, but for $3 there is nothing like a new acrylic that makes a watch pop, in my opinion. The caseback gasket was hardened and just glad it wasn't tar. Changed that as well. Here is the after Pic on a temp black strap while I decide on a leather or steel bracelet. An added bonus was doing some research and finding out the Elgin connection and the movement is a PUW 1563T which is German I am pretty sure and probably why it doesn't say Swiss made on the dial. This movement is supposed to have a hack feature and quickset date by pushing the crown. But neither of those complications seem to be working. Not sure if the stem is cut too short because there is no gap for the crown to move. Either way at some point will need to be serviced and check the keyless works to find out what is going on with the quickset and hack of the sweep second hand.

The timegrapher reading is amazing for an unserviced movement.

Hi @ManSkirtBrew have a read of this tech document, it’s a bit of a mish mash English and Spanish , E870.pdf

On eco-drives, I've had to replace the battery, then pull the crown out and leave it like that for a few minuets, then push it back in and it start ups correctly.

Hi, My name is Simeon I am based in Sydney, Australia and have recently got into watch repair / watch making. I am very much a learner having serviced multiple forgotten watches, some of which were actually successful! I have a slowly growing collection of watches, mainly old Soviet, a few Japanese and (not pictured) some Raketas, a Poljot Alarm, an Omega Speedmaster Reduced and a vintage (1972) Tissot Seastar. I like unloved vintage watches, with quirky faces and enjoy bringing them back to life through the simple(!) act of disassembly, clearing and reassembly. I am an Electrical Engineer who also undertook a trade apprenticeship so I am reasonably handy - It's fair to say, I know just enough to get myself in trouble.

That looks very much like an AS984 That doesn't necessarily mean that it's not a genuine watch though. These were used in a great number of watch brands

New strap pictures. This one is going into the collection. Will be looking for a president bracelet I think ad well...

Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help. Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:

The movement is so called 'Tongji', standard chinese movement. The stem can still be used with the help of extender.