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By Senyamnesi · Posted
I swapped mine with a 377 and it's worked fine for over a year. Just make sure the contact springs are clean and sitting right when putting it back together. -
No reason not to use modern synthetic oils. They will perform as well or better, and they will last longer. One thing to watch for when the train pivots are not jeweled - old watches tend to have worn out and egg-shaped pivot holes with excessive sideshake. Light oil like 9010 can run right out of them - they do a poor job retaining lubrication in the oil sink. If I find that happening and cannot close the pivot hole adequately, I may go to HP1300 for all of the train except the escape wheel since it stays in place a little better. -
Excellent cleaner! I've used it for years. It has very little smell when diluted, is efficient, and is, I believe, biodegradable (I could be wrong about that). -
By steve1811uk · Posted
I am sure you will do, just takes time to build up the skills and a bit of confidence. I have only been enjoying this hobby for 5 years myself and in that time restored around 40 watches, all shapes and sizes from 100 year old pocket watches to really tiny manual wind women's watches. I would say that the Rolex was one of the least technically challenging apart from as I said, the avoidance of damaging or losing anything. -
Hi all As subject really but when servicing old Pocket Watches, especially low end models with metal bushes (Jewels) and pin pallets is it best to use a more tradional oil as the manufacturer used ie D5 and 8000 or is it better to use their modern synthetic equivalent ie HP 1300 & 9010 Thanks Paul
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