Jump to content

Timex Explorer Crystal Replacement


Recommended Posts

Hello, As I mentioned in my intro post I'm a newbie and have started practicing on some inexpensive quartz watches laying around. I want to replace a damaged crystal on a Timex Explorer. I have replaced a crystal on a dive watch that had a gasket and I could order the crystal by the watch model number. Not so with this Timex.

 

The Timex has a stainless diver like case except there was no gasket. After removing the crystal and movement I cleaned the case and noticed a small amount of a clear sealant of some type where the original crystal sat. Measuring the opening I get 24.5 mm. The crystal thickness is 2 mm. My initial thought was to install a domed mineral crystal using a gasket ( I type) but all the gasket sizes I found have ODs of 24.8 or 24.3. The domed mineral crystals seem to be sized every .5 mm. This seems to leave me one option is to try a 24.5 domed crystal with some sealant or flat crystal that is available in .1 mm increments.

The original crystal is plastic, 2 mm thick with a 1 mm dome. Under closer inspection I noticed a very small lip around the bottom edge. When measuring the old crystal it was 24.5 mm without the lip and 25 mm including the lip. Even if I wanted to reinstall the old crystal I can't see how it would be possible to compress a 2 mm thick plastic crystal enough to get it started into the case.

 

Another thought about adding a gasket is it would be visible from the front since the watch doesn't have a bezel insert that would cover the gasket like traditional divers.

 

And thoughts on the best way to proceed would be appreciated. 1b70e97c15fd17b6415af8c56a33e07c.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Either way will be  fine, choose the crystal and method that you like better. Personally I would avoid plastic and (if meant for everyday use or occasional show-off) use sapphire if cost is reasonable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile, and not less mobile which is the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
    • Would it be correct to say that the stronger the mainspring, the thicker the oil should be? So for a fusee mainspring, should a thick grease be used?
    • I started on pocket watches as they are easier to work on than wristwatches. Many had gold cases, which is why there are so many movements for sale. I was always on the look out for cases, for as Nickelsilver says,  a 16s movement will fit any 16s case* (with tweaks to the stem). I also started hand winding mainsprings, before I had winders. It can be done without damage, but it's quite hard on the fingers.  But you can make homemade winders, see here      * some movements, eg "railroad grade", have a setting lever on the edge of the  dial at about the 1 -2 o'clock, so need a special case.
×
×
  • Create New...