Jump to content

June 2nd Clock Quiz


oldhippy

Recommended Posts

The clock has either been a hook and spike clock and converted to long case by the maker or by someone else at a later date so it should have started life as a uncased wall clock such as the one in the following link:

https://www.loveantiques.com/antique-clocks/georgian-antiques-(1714-to-1837)/antique-hook-and-spike-wall-clock-baxter-conderton-77668

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes you are correct.

It started life as a hook and spike. Hook and spike movements tended to be of the bird cage type.  I thought this would be hard. But not for you, you sure know your stuff and also reading the right books. :Bravo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The solid back plate did throw me for a while but I could see no other reason for the extra holes.

These clocks are often described as crude which by todays standard they are but in your experience how accurate would a clock like this be ? and another thing that must effect these clocks is they are open with no covering of the movement is this a big problem regarding dust they must need more regular cleaning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Tmuir said:

Cool, would of never guessed that.

I knew it was a 30 hour clock but that was it.

Would this of originally used rope and have been converted to chain?

Most started with a rope, but ropes fray and do not last that long. Chains took over because they are more robust and stronger. Sometimes you can see that the spikes have been altered in order to take the linkage of the chain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, wls1971 said:

The solid back plate did throw me for a while but I could see no other reason for the extra holes.

These clocks are often described as crude which by todays standard they are but in your experience how accurate would a clock like this be ? and another thing that must effect these clocks is they are open with no covering of the movement is this a big problem regarding dust they must need more regular cleaning.

They can very accurate to less then 1 minute a week. Any clock movement that is open will get dirty quick.

These movements are big and very robust so dirt is not a big problem, but of cause, wear and tear will set in. As you know, it takes something major to stop clocks like these. With the wonder of history no central heating to screw it up. Many were converted to what are known as Hooded clocks, so the hood would protect the movement.

Hooded Clock.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

They can very accurate to less then 1 minute a week. Any clock movement that is open will get dirty quick

That's quite impressive really for the tools and manufacturing processes available at the time I had really got the idea in my head that they wouldn't be that accurate.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks, ManSkirtBrew.  I started looking for a setup like yours and ran across this.  It was about half the price of the JKA Feintaster (depending on what auction you were in), and it's a Bergeon.  I bought it because I thought the price was fair (eBay - Buy it now), and I'm a sucker for vintage tools. It also has a table, so it should be easy to use for measuring jewels. I wonder if the the contact points can be changed out. Bergeon seems to manufacture new tables and accessories for the contemporary dial version. What do you guys think of it? I'm sorry this post seems to have taken a detour. I'm new here so let me know if I should start a new topic.
    • This is a flying cutter, usual one. The cutter itself is shown in the pictures in the first message, it is made of broken tungsten carbide drill bit. I asure that all the angles of the cutter are as they should be. I have video - little older one - that I made when onse making the same kind of winding pinion for a Poljot 2200, which is even smaller than this one. It is not easy to see in the video, but the tool rest moves about 1mm towards the object in Y direction and then returns back untill cutter is rotating. Then the spindle is rotated one tooth ahead and everything repeated untill all teeth are cut.
    • After a bit further research could it possibly be an AS 970?
    • Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
    • Oh and this almost perfect third wheel pivot and slightly set mainspring  Ah ok yes i see what you mean, good idea. I'll try that if i fluff this one up. The image isn't great quality but i like the idea though.
×
×
  • Create New...