Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a Seiko 8280 11A with a centre wheel that has come detached from its staff. I bought another centre wheel repeat with staff but it won't fit.

I am wondering if it might be possible to reattach the wheel to the staff using a small amount of loctite, the kind that you can take apart again if need be - I use it for attaching crowns to stems.

I think that, once the wheel is in place it should work? 

Posted

Are you sure you bought the right replacement part? As I am one of the old boys, I do not like to advice on using adhesive. If you go down that road, you need to make sure it will not harm any metal it comes into contact with.

Posted

To rogart63: It's 8280 not 8230. Perhaps I misprinted the number.

To old hippy: The part I got from the supplier was wrong but I was told it was for another version of the movement. I'm taking it back for credit. I may be able to get the part from another supplier. It's strange that the two parts, centre wheel and its staff, separated.

 

Posted
On 5/18/2018 at 4:39 PM, Folkvisor said:

To rogart63: It's 8280 not 8230. Perhaps I misprinted the number.

To old hippy: The part I got from the supplier was wrong but I was told it was for another version of the movement. I'm taking it back for credit. I may be able to get the part from another supplier. It's strange that the two parts, centre wheel and its staff, separated.

 

Sorry but can't figure it out anyway. Is the movement a 8280 11A ? 

I can find a small 11A But where does the 8230 or 8280 come in . 

Sure you can try to loctite it have done that a few times . As long as you remove everything from the outside of the axle. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...