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Posted

I’m currently rebuilding a fusee design pocket watch and before I install the chain I’d like to clean, inspect and correctly oil / lubricate it. Could anyone give tips on how to do this and also on what to look for in terms of damage etc.

 

What I will say is that the sides of the plates are quite bright where the blue has been worn off by the fusee cone

 

 

 

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Posted
Try this thread....several opinions, as is usual when it comes to lubrication [emoji4] 

Thank you khunter, I appreciate your help[emoji106]


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Posted

When I did mine (see my post re main watch) I soaked it in lighter fuel for a few hours in a plastic pot then popped the pot in the U/S cleaner for a minute or two.  I then worked the spring over a polished bar whilst brushing with lighter fuel to ensure all the links were free and then cleaned again, repeating if necessary. When the chain was nice and free I lubed with some Moebius HP500 by applying a small amount on the chain then working it into the links (again using the polished bar to work the links) then wiped off any excess, this seems to work ok.  Apart from loose/tight links and excessive wear, then make sure the hooks are not damaged or badly worn and check them in the fusee ends etc before winding up the fusee. Unless the wear is such that the link so thin it is likely to break, or the links are very sloppy (indicating heavy wear on the rivets, then loss of bluing should not be a problem.  There are often chains on the bay and other sources if you know the correct size/length/hooks.

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    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
    • …I guess my friend’s dad was duped…and by a Rolex dealer… …well, it’s a good fake 🤪 even the box and papers look legit…  
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