Jump to content

H.J. Norris (Coventry) Pocket Watch


Recommended Posts

There isn’t supposed to be a spring. From the photo you need to turn the ratchet wheel over. That little pin is meant to go through the arbor to hold the ratchet wheel in place, I would replace the pin because they are not supposed to come out (it is what I call ill fitting)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There isn’t supposed to be a spring. From the photo you need to turn the ratchet wheel over. That little pin is meant to go through the arbor to hold the ratchet wheel in place, I would replace the pin because they are not supposed to come out (it is what I call ill fitting)


Thank you. This is becoming a lot clearer now. So the ratchet wheel is pinned to the arbor and when pretension is applied, the ratchet is swung into place and locked off with the screw, thus preventing the pretension being lost. All I need to do now is reassemble the chain and setup the pretension. Kind regards Deggsie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fiddled with one of these some time ago and unfortunately broke a lever pivot when re-assembling so will need to get a new staff/pivot made by a professional watchmaker (about £30 last quote!!).  This was caused by trying to get all the pivots into the large single plate.  Make sure the plate sits down easily on the posts before you start to re-assemble the train as this can make pivot alignment difficult if the plate is tight on the posts.  I think the ratchet is only for when you are finally setting the winding of the chain on the fusee to give it a little pre-tension.  There are several good books on English Lever Full Plate Pocket watches which I consulted.  I copied the relevant pages for my file but didn't make a note of the authors (duh!!), I thin one was by DeCarle, but if you search the net for English lever Full Plate Pocket Watch repair/restoration you may find good info on how to check/repair the fusee, assemble and set-up the watch etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


And here are the photos. Sorry, I got Freddy fast fingers today

ecdac79558c739e202402b366f9a162e.jpg&key=fa90dfa4d595826d149c03f39aed94d7944f2e8f5a7f26f34989dcbfc01e882148f528014b79ea8a2be9fddd304bb56e.jpg&key=2b1d7e9f6a1e280ef86246e93f5d8ebdffa85bc2833c8a63334eb8eb3b2fd94e


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure you turn the ratchet wheel about 6 clicks to put some tension on the spring elts the chain will drop off...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There isn’t supposed to be a spring. From the photo you need to turn the ratchet wheel over. That little pin is meant to go through the arbor to hold the ratchet wheel in place, I would replace the pin because they are not supposed to come out (it is what I call ill fitting)


Hello OH. Sorry not to have reported back on this for a few days but work has prevailed (unfortunately). The square end of the mainspring arbor does not have a hole through it. You explanation seems so logical. I’ve looked at 20x magnification on all 4 facets and no evidence of a pin ‘sheared’ off either. So I’m wondering do some designs rely on the mechanical back pressure on the ratchet to lock it onto the square arbor?

Also the chain is quite stiff so I need to but some work into this before going any further. It’s soaking in white spirit just now, then I shall soak in naphtha, and finally warm 3 in 1 oil.

I’ll keep you appraised of how things go. Any comments are much appreciated as this is my first fusee p/w




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I'm sitting on the edge of my chair waiting to see the end results of this endeavor! Fantastic work thus far! This is why I love this group!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I'm sitting on the edge of my chair waiting to see the end results of this endeavor! Fantastic work thus far! This is why I love this group!  

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Ah .. Gary you may need to sit back and relax for a bit as things have taken an undesirable course. Sadly the barrel hook had become detached from the chain! Under microscope it appears that a solder joint may have been made in the past. The good news is that replacements seem to be readily available on eBay, although I need to measure up the exact length, width and thickness. The chain I have is very worn down the sides of the plates do ascertaining the true thickness may be difficult. These things are sent to test us!

 

In not sure if anyone here offers a repair service? Or maybe you know of someone who can?

 

Regards

Deggsie

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to give you all an update on this repair. Firstly thank you to all who have offered positive and useful advice, especially OldHippie. Without the advice I have received on here I would not have started this project. I’m currently sourcing a replacement fusee chain from a gentleman on eBay who literally has too many lengths and sizes of chains to list then all, so I’m hopeful he can find one.

 

I’ll keep you posted when I have a replacement fusee chain and have it installed back in the watch. Until then, onto my next movement

 

Deggsie

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome from Leeds.  No such thing as a stupid question.   Find something to practice on before starting the Vertex. 
    • I'm looking for the movement spacer ring for a Vertex 1944 military 'dirty dozen'. Ideally, I'd like to buy an original, although that may prove difficult. So, anyone with anything similar or just the correct sizings, would suffice for now. Alternatively, is there anyone that may be able to machine one (preffered) ?  Or maybe even the dreaded 3D printing ?
    • Fashion watch casebacks are extremely tight with no gap for a knife to enter. A razor blade is the only tool that gets me in with a sharp ping as the back releases. Personally i wouldn’t modify, as it is you can remove and replace though somewhat difficult , with a mod it may not stay on. It could very well be a sharp edge that keeps it in place , a light rub might take away that edge ? It wouldn’t be worth that risk to me, just how accurate is a drill and the chuck, its not the accuracy of a lathe . 
    • Quick hello. I'm Wayne, living in N Wales, UK. Total newbie to watches.  Always liked them, but never got deep into them.   Anyway, last year, I dived in and bought a vintage Omega, which turned out to be a pig, so it was returned.  I am a engineer by profession, so was annoyed that I didn't know how to repair it myself. So, I then bought a Omega Dynamic chronograph, which works perfectly fine and I absolutely love it. Then a friend introduced me to the 'Dirty Dozen' and being ex military, I wanted one. So, now, I own a Vertex DD in need of repair and gentle restoration. (I have restored my own classic car, so am well aware of maintaining as much originality as possible) and I love the age and patina on the watch. And finally, I am now hooked on watching watch repair videos on UToob and would just like to learn and give it a go as a hobby. The professional level tools for this job are hugely expensive though, that's my first learning curve 🙂. Anyway, expect me to pop up asking wildly stupid questions around the forum.    
    • The pins on those are a bit aggressive, not handed i believe.  I find them easier to unhook if i back them out where the spring begins to wind away and widen out. There's also a trick to stop them snapping around to the openings, its also a good idea to soften the edges of the 3 closure prongs.
×
×
  • Create New...