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Hook repair/replace on Watchmaster MS winder

MrRoundel

By MrRoundel
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MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

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Greetings. Does anyone have any ideas as to whether that hook is replaceable? The other size of winder (Watch-craft) has the hook, and it is incorporated into a ring that is set into a recess. I have my doubts that it's fixable, but it would be nice if it were, as the other winder is made for probably 16-18s pocket-watches, and I'd like to use it for smaller ones. Thanks for any ideas. Cheers.

 

winder.jpg

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MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

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I take it that I'm rather stuffed on this one. Oh well...I did think that I might, if I had the skill, drill crosswise through the shaft at the recess, and insert a pin. Anything else I can think of would seem to tend to spin i the recess, making it unworkable. So if any of you machining experts can suggest a drilling technique, I'm all eyes. Thanks.

 

 

khunter WRT Addict

khunter

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I think it could be done. Use a center punch to make your starting mark and to keep the bit from wandering. If you have a drill press and a vice it will be much easier. 

MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

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Thanks khunter. I don't have the tools or skills required for drilling a hole so small. I have other winders, it's just this Watch-craft is a nice one where it's a shame for it to be incomplete. I bought it at an NAWCC Mart quite a few years ago, but didn't know to check out whether the hooks were intact. Let that be a lesson to me and anyone who reads this. I do find it odd that it would get broken, but someone found a way. Cheers.

vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

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a good way to learn basic repair is to invest in a "dremel"   set.   by adding a drill chuck and a set of small drill bits, you can practice  drilling.  vin

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MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

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Thanks, vinn3. Coincidentally, I just picked up a Foredom tool that has a drill-bit/Jacobs style chuck. I guess I could use that. And I have a Unimat lathe that has a Jacobs chuck. I won it in a raffle at an NAWCC Mart a little over one year ago. Which do you think would be better for drilling this part? I guess I have to figure out how to hold the tool while it's drilled. I've looked around for tutorials on using that lathe, but I can't find any for the beginner, which I am. Thanks again.

MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

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BTW: The Unimat has the capability to setup  to be used as a drill-press. And it even has a machine-clamp that will probably work to hold it steady. I forgot about that. I'll have to convert it and see how it looks. That should solve my "holding" problem. I suppose it's about time I used the tool for something. Thanks, vinn3. Cheers.

measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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7 hours ago, vinn3 said:

  the early unimats had a  1/2 x 20 inch thread,  

 

The Unimat db200/SL1000 had a 12mm spindle thread and the U3 a 14mm spindle thread.  afaik that was universal.  A deviation would be a be big deal as accessories wouldn't fit - where did you come across a unimat with 1/2 spindle thread?

vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

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15 hours ago, measuretwice said:

 

The Unimat db200/SL1000 had a 12mm spindle thread and the U3 a 14mm spindle thread.  afaik that was universal.  A deviation would be a be big deal as accessories wouldn't fit - where did you come across a unimat with 1/2 spindle thread?

have one.  must be a "made in U.S.A."   ,   thing.   I sometimes use a Jacobs chuck in place of a "unomat"  4 law.  vin

measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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I don't think they were ever made in the Us, Unimats were made in Austria.  12mm is close to 1/2 but I think you'll find its 12mm.   1/2 20 would be slightly large, It would be a loose fit with 1/2 20 and the register part of the spindle wouldn't register.   Try a 1/2 20 bolt in the 4 jaw, it should be very tight or more likely won't go

Edited by measuretwice
MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

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Of the two Jacobs chucks that came with my lathe, only one fits the spindle threads. One is a Rigid brand, which may have come from a drill motor; It does not fit, FWIW. I set up the Unimat SL1000 for drilling with the machine "vice" to hold the part to be drilled. The drill bit will have to get between the barely open jaws in order to do the work. It will be tight but looks doable. I won't be able to get to the actual drilling for a week or so, but will report back on how it works out. Cheers, gents.

 

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DSC06122.JPG

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measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

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thats a very capable little machine that you can do a lot with and have a lot of fun with, nice raffle prize!

Take khunters advice and locate the hole with a very small punch mark.  Drills generally need a place to start - punch or spot drill.  Especially true on cross drilling as the round surface makes it very easy for the drill to deflect off to the side

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