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Hi guys,

Sharing some pictures of my Seiko dress watch.

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It has a 6030 quartz movement (sorry no movement pics as I'm writing this at work) which from what I can find on the 'net is an 8 jewel movement and it has a trimmer screw to fine-tune its accuracy. It seems a decent enough movement from the pics on the net.

What makes this watch stand out is the case which is made of a scratch-resistant material. Its pretty similar to Rado dress watches in terms of look and feel. The crystal is probably a sapphire crystal.

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The case-back is marked SHAC'(along with st steel back). I found some references that say it stands for 'Super Hard Alloy Case' but on one site someone mentions 'Super Hard Alloy Cobalt' which I think is much sexier so thats the one I choose! The first digit in the serial number is '0'so I figured it was from 1990 as the design was quite 'modern but I've since decided that its from 1980 as the movement seems to have been around in 1979. Considering it is 37 years old now its in pretty good shape with no scratches or markings anywhere! The mirror finish does make smudges from fingers more noticeable so I do catch my self constantly ''polishing' it!

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Its pretty thin as well and pretty unobtrusive when you strap it on.

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I'm not really a fan of quartz watches but this one will be staying with me.

Anilv

 

 

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  • 7 months later...

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    • Yes, we're actively discussing it! I believe tomorrow I'll go there so he assembles it. Better safe than sorry. Dude is old and experienced.
    • All consistent with my thinking! Makes good sense.  The lower jewels aren’t cracked. However, it’s possible that when I oiled them I didn’t seat them firmly enough. I’ll double check that.  If that balance staff is too short, that would explain a whole lot. But I don’t have a micrometer to measure. Then if it is too short, I’d have to buy an NOS one (presumably different from the 2802 I bought previously). Then we’re back close to the beginning of this discussion. 😂 
    • Does the watchmaker know it's for a screw down crown and not just a standard split stem as the ones in the photo look standard?
    • Thank you very much for this. Re: 1. I've so far found that this one needs something thicker than 2x kitchen foil (another suggestion in that thread)! 2. I've been checking where the roller needs to be in relation to the wheel, the hairspring stud/arm & the pallet fork to try to get it right first time. 3. Does one raise notches at both ends of the tube? 4. What is a "driver roller sharpener"?
    • Hmm, if it is sitting that low I am not sure I would blame end shake (which would be to blame if you turned it DU and the hairspring touched the balance cock). If it is sitting so low that the balance rubs on the pallet bridge I would verify that the balance arms are not dished downward and also that the lower balance jewel doesn't have an issue such as being chipped. Or the balance staff is actually too short, which would have caused your earlier end shake problems too. If you install the pallet bridge without the pallet fork and install the balance, is your free oscillation still good or is it immediately bound up on the pallet bridge? (I have an elgin watch like that where someone in the past ground down the pallet bridge significantly) Yes, you'll need to rotate the hairspring but deal with the pallet bridge interference first.
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