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Posted

This watch stopped working and is dirty, I'm trying to disassemble and clean.   It seems to me the brass in the centre has to come off - any suggestions on how to do so without making a mess of things?

 

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Posted

If you have hand levers (as in two separate levers not the modern presto type tool) you can remove this in a similar manner to hands, to pry it directly up, you may be able to improvise with screwdrivers otherwise, but that's the method, first time i saw this I thought it had to be pulled apart somehow like other C-clips but no, it pries up and off and is then pressed directly back down again to be refitted. 

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Posted
16 hours ago, measuretwice said:

It seems to me the brass in the centre has to come off - any suggestions on how to do so without making a mess of things?

Just don't buff the "brass" off, that would make a sure mess. :D

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Posted (edited)

progress report......

You know what the difference is between a watchmaker who knows what he's doing and me?  sore knees searching the tiled floor for parts.  An that's with a bench with glass sides back and top and the pull out catch tray.  Good news is I'm getting lots of practice and manual dexterity is improving.  I usually find the part, but this time I managed to lose the rotor when it flew off :(.  Being magnetic exacerbates the challenge, it could have stuck to so many things.

This movement is out of production.  I suppose these electronic watches are sort of a disposable consumer thing given the electronics will eventually fail, and with all the plastic they're not exactly inspiring....but hey, that one lonely jewel needed to be serviced and I'm a dog with a bone.

As it turns out the yoke is just about rusted through.  While Seiko forsakes you on the movement, the good news is both parts are still used in other watches (yoke and lost rotor) so they're available and on order.  Hopefully I can make it work.

The symptom of the watch was a jumpy second hand and not really keeping time.  Turns out there were bits of metal stuck to the rotor, no doubt the missing chunks of the yoke.  Interesting how the metal corroded in just that one spot which is an obvious stress riser.  Stress does increase corrosion in steel so it seems a bit of a design flaw....the thin spring arm could have been wider through this section.   Other than some crud from the battery, there was no other corrosion in the watch

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Edited by measuretwice
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  • 1 year later...
Posted

One year on, how have you got on with servicing the 5y23?  I might soon have one of my own that will need some tlc so I'm keen to benefit from your experience.



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    • Thank you very much for this. Re: 1. I've so far found that this one needs something thicker than 2x kitchen foil (another suggestion in that thread)! 2. I've been checking where the roller needs to be in relation to the wheel, the hairspring stud/arm & the pallet fork to try to get it right first time. 3. Does one raise notches at both ends of the tube? 4. What is a "driver roller sharpener"?
    • Hmm, if it is sitting that low I am not sure I would blame end shake (which would be to blame if you turned it DU and the hairspring touched the balance cock). If it is sitting so low that the balance rubs on the pallet bridge I would verify that the balance arms are not dished downward and also that the lower balance jewel doesn't have an issue such as being chipped. Or the balance staff is actually too short, which would have caused your earlier end shake problems too. If you install the pallet bridge without the pallet fork and install the balance, is your free oscillation still good or is it immediately bound up on the pallet bridge? (I have an elgin watch like that where someone in the past ground down the pallet bridge significantly) Yes, you'll need to rotate the hairspring but deal with the pallet bridge interference first.
    • Ok. So given that I had free oscillations DU/DD for roughly the same time, I reassembled with the pallet fork and bridge underneath, and now I can see two more problems.    1. The arms of the balance are nearly flush with the pallet bridge. Bad. I can speculate as to why…the end shake still looks to be too much. Maybe other causes as well? 2. The balance doesn’t spin freely. In the resting position, it looks like the impulse jewel is outside the jaws of the pallet fork. Not by much, but still outside. If it needs be inside in the static position, then I’m guessing I’ll need to rotate my hairspring collet to change orientation by a few degrees.    The journey continues…
    • Ok, that's good to know, thank you.
    • Andy, why you betray me?   I may have good news. I'll share later! I have contacted an old watchmaker from my town, and the guy has it all. He is offline, so no parts are available to purchase, but he offered to send one for less than 10 USD, which is great. I'm now checking if he has an oscillating weight as well, to close up all that I need to put this movement to work.   Thank you all for the support. And if any good soul finds a video of the assembly process of this stem and crown, it would complete my day!  
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