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Posted

Is less more when oiling clocks? There was obviously too much of the wrong kind of oil on the plates before it was cleaned.

I used small drops of oil on the pivots, more on the barrel arbours.

Posted

Get some Windles clock oil that will cover all the pivots, escapement and mainsprings. You need a good watch oil for platform escapements.

Posted

Cause it is that is one of the many reasons why there are so many lubricants about. You never use a thin oil on a clock train. You do use watch oil on a clock with a platform escapement and I would suggest a pocket watch train oil.

Posted

I'm presently trying to get the clock to slow up a bit. Just experimenting with pendulum length...

I'll probably slow it down too much, speed it up too much, slow it down...

 

Posted
 

The bell doesn't ring very well because the beater dampens the bell when hitting it.

Is there a way to remedy this?

It is called a hammer that hits the bell. Bend the hammer closer to the bell; it is a trial and error until you get it right. If you have the movement out of its case, it will sound different. Cases were designed in a way so the sound of the strike or chime could sound loud and clear to the ear. Modern clock cases are not, the type of wood also plays its part.

Posted

Will do. It's called a hammer for orchestral bells too.

The hour chime is a very nice full sound but that hammer seems to hit the chime then immediately drop away. 

Between the bell hammer and pendulum length adjustments It keeps me busy. A work in progress.

Thank you for your advice.

 

Posted

This is a sign that the chiming wheels are not in line with the clock chiming mechanism. Is there any way you can take a few photos so I can point out what you need to do. The other thing do you know the type and make of the movement?

Posted

When the warning takes place make sure none of the hammers lift, this applies to the strike and the chimes sides. The pin needs to be at least 1 quarter of the wheel back from the flywheel.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Welcome aboard Dave.

Thank you for the post, it's one I've meant to make for a while now.  I too have been using fully synthetic engine oil for lubricating clocks for years now and have had excellent results.  The dregs left left in the new container from one engine oil change will give you enough oil to lubricate many clocks.

 

Posted

Thanks for that link. I will still use my tried and trusted Windles clock oil. I had great results over many years. In fact I still have a bottle of it in one of my tool boxes.

Posted

Wow, this is good news! I could by 2 or 3 quarts of motor oil for what it cost me for a very small bottle of clock oil!

Also, I was told to use transmission fluid to lube springs. Cheap and seems to be working so far for the few clocks I've fixed.

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