Jump to content

Carriage clock no longer runs for 8 days


AlanCJ

Recommended Posts

I have an early 20th century striking french carriage clock which I have recently serviced.  I have a number of other clocks, a couple of 400 day clocks and a French regulator clock which I have serviced several times without problems, but this is the first time I have serviced the carriage clock.  Prior to the service it would run for 8 days on a wind, so I used to wind it on the same day each week, but since the service it stops after 5 days.  It is fully wound down when it stops, so I have no idea what has changed, can anyone shed any light on the problem.  It keeps good time, but I have had to adjust the escapement more towards retard than it was previously

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, that is exactly it, and yes I agree it is very odd.  I stripped it, gave it a good ultrasonic clean, reassembled and oiled with good quality clock oil.  It keeps perfect time but now stops after just 5 days on a full wind.  I had no problems with the service other than there was a mechanism on the mainspring barrel cap that I have not seen before and so I have no idea what it does.  I have attached a photo

IMG_6423.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you have here is a stop work fitted to the barrel. This is found in better clock movements. I expect you do not have it set right so this is the answer to your odd problem. Here is a link explaining how it works. After reading it and looking at your stop work you find you still need help let me know.

http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogstopwork.php

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I am no expert and have never worked on clocks, but I believe the mechanism is known as Geneva stop gear/works or  Maltese Cross.

They have been on a couple of pocket watch mainsprings that I have worked on before. 

You  are quite correct. It is used so the spring doesn't come off the barral arbor. That is why you give the arbor a turn before setting the stop, it causes a lock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it is a Black, Starr and Frost (Department store in New York) branded French carriage clock which from my research dates it to pre 1920 when the company changed its name to Black, Starr & Gorham Jewelry and Silverware Company

IMG_0605.JPG

IMG_0623.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

It certainly seems as though it is not fully winding. I have not worked on Maltese cross or Geneva stop work but I suspect that is the fault area.

You quite often find part or complete stop work missing. The most common is the screw comes adrift the tread is worn or the stop work is worn and jams up the works. So parts go missing or just thrown away.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...