Automatic Bidirectional Wheel Cleaning

[clockboy]

I have question regarding cleaning an automatic watch. Is it ok to clean the bidirectional wheels as I seem to remember seeing on an ETA assembly diagram the instructions do not wash. As I clean my watch with an ultrasonic cleaner will it do damage.

[clockboy]

I have found where I read this it is for calibre 11 ó´´´ ETA 2836-2.

It recommends no wash & replace if dirty. I therefore presume other calibre's are Ok for normal cleaning procedures.

[Geo]

I've not worked on one before, but what harm could it do? Surely it would be better to clean and reassemble than replace in a non-lubricated dirty condition. That's what I would do unless someone can give a really good reason not to.

I would be interested to here Mark's take on this.

[clockboy]

Geo,

I agree but it does seem strange that this particular ETA movement has this advice on their tech sheet. Perhaps these wheels are constructed differently  or made of material that can easily be damaged when cleaning. I have cleaned other calibre ETA  movements with auto and had no problems after.

[bobm12]

I'm taking an online class about watch repair sponsored by Otto Frei website and WatchZone. The instructor used to work for some Swatch or Swiss name brand as a watchmaker.

 

The movements used are the Unitas 6497/8 or ETA 2801-2 and later the ETA 2824 (can be substituted with the ETA 2836-2). The ETA 2824-2 is the same as the ETA 2836-2 without the day ebauche. In this class, we are supposed to clean and lube all these movements (we use ultrasonic cleaning machines).

 

Considering the initial question here, and the understanding that -- a difference from Asian markets -- Swiss watches are designed with servicing in mind, I'd definitely would like a second opinion!

 

PS. Mark has a video servicing an ETA 2824-2 which is outstanding -- I would apply the same logic to the ETA 2836-2...unless the contrary can be determined (here?)

[Marc]

The official ETA take on this is that you do not clean or lubricate the reverser wheels, but replace them.

The reason for this is that when they are new they have a factory applied lubricant which keeps thing moving nicely without gumming up.

The problem with cleaning them is that they then need re-lubricating, and the issue there is that if the wrong oil is used, or it gets into the wrong places, the pawls stick.

 

However, if my budget doesn't allow for replacement then I am quite happy to put them through the cleaning machine and then very carefully lubricate just the pawls with the smallest amount of 9010 that I can apply, and this works for me.

 

There is a special lubricant that you can use called Lubeta V105. This is a waxy lubricant dissolved in a highly volatile carrier. You simply drop the wheels in and then take them out again. The carrier solvent evaporates and leaves behind a very film of the wax.

The DIY version of this is to mix 9010 1:10 with naphtha.

I haven't tried either of these techniques but those who have reported their efforts on the inter-web report favourably.

[bobm12]

Excellent Marc, I've heard of the Lubeta V105 but I haven't yet searched for availability from the suppliers I know. Since I'll be servicing some 2836s in the near future (they are waiting for their turn at my bench) I might opt for the lubeta lubricant.