Jump to content

Lever Set Elgin, Railroad Or Not


Recommended Posts

If you have time to read this, it might help. There are many different opinions of what constitutes a RR grade. I suspect this was due to the competition among mfgs for RR business. Mr. Singer is pretty knowledgeable on the subject.  Lever set is RR okay.

http://ph.nawcc.org/Railroad/Railroad.htm

Your watch is nice 466 including gold screws and "high tech" regulator and well worn crown,  did a quick search on elginwatches.org for more info.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have time to read this, it might help. There are many different opinions of what constitutes a RR grade. I suspect this was due to the competition among mfgs for RR business. Mr. Singer is pretty knowledgeable on the subject.  Lever set is RR okay.
http://ph.nawcc.org/Railroad/Railroad.htm
Your watch is nice 466 including gold screws and "high tech" regulator and well worn crown,  did a quick search on elginwatches.org for more info.

Is a worn crown a good thing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, jdrichard said:


The crown is hard to turn with no grip. Do you know a good source for vintage 16S Watch crowns?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Not off hand, it would be part of case, (who is case mfg?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, jdrichard said:

So this watch should be a Railroad Grade watch? Correct? Even though the PW Database said no24c93b39b7660c8fb8efcd0f3e902b24.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Sometimes, (not always) online databases are not really updated, It's time consuming and there isn't much of a reward,(for editor), so it can be difficult to determine exactly what you have. I am not saying I'm right and you are wrong on the Bartlett. (probably because it wasn't adjusted for heat and cold and 5 positions) Also, since RR approval was normally determined by the RR, not necessarily the mfg, it lent a pretty wide berth from mfg'ers to determine a watch to be RR "grade". (Meaning it fell into the criteria of a RR watch) The individual RR would have their own list of "approved" watches. Does that make sense?
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have found a few "real" RR watches with the railroad company logo stamped inside the case back with a calibration date.  I am not sure but that seems to indicate this watch was used by that Rail Road.  I have only seen that twice.    

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...