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I just replaced the balance staff on a BULOVA 10bh and used a genuine BULOVA staff from a 7ak which is a acceptable interchange. I replaced the staff and put it back in, balance swings well but there is only a very faint tick, I'm thinking I put the roller on in the wrong place, possibly off center. Does anyone have any ideas

 

 

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Does your impulse jewel rest centrally between the banking pins of the pallet fork when the watch is at rest the best way to check is to remove the pallet fork replace the balance and check. Mark has a video on the subject.

 

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Posted
Does your impulse jewel rest centrally between the banking pins of the pallet fork when the watch is at rest the best way to check is to remove the pallet fork replace the balance and check. Mark has a video on the subject.
 

A long time before I decided to embarked on this wonderful hobby I used to watch your videos on you tube and was always impressed by your presentation style. I am a mechanical engineer by trade and wish I had similar, impeccable presentation skills. I appreciate the clarity or your explanations and your easy to listen to mannerisms. Thank you Mark. By the way is that a slight London accent buried away in your tone? Regards Deggsy


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    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
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