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Hello everyone. My name is Tony and I'm from Cumbria. I have been keen on Horology for about 30 years and have resurrected dozens of clocks from the graveyard. However I've always been reluctant/scared to delve into wristwatches. Recently I was bequeathed a 1969 Omega Seamaster "Flat Jedi" Chronograph, the case is in a bit of a state (missing chrono pushbuttons,snapped stem,missing crown) etc. The dial and movement (cal 861) look immaculate although it is a non runner. Does anyone think this is a step too far for me ie should I learn to walk before I can run. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

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Welcome!

Chronographs are not the best way to start IMO... Get a really cheap pocket watch from the internet, practice on that first (it's bigger and a great way to learn). Then get a cheap wristwatch and work on that for a while. It's both to get comfortable with the layout but also with the tools, materials and the size.

Chronographs are a whole other breed IMO. They require experience and knowledge of the movement so that you can disassemble and assemble them the correct way. I'm not familiar with this particular movement (looks gorgeous by the way) so I'll let other comment on the degree of difficulty.

There are clock people around, they'll be able to explain what to expect coming from the clock world :)

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Hell Tony, I started out on clocks from the very simple to high end stuff, then I went on watches at this time I was an apprentice, it was the simple easy watch movements it was only when I mastered them I moved on to the more complicated movements, Chronographs come under complicated movements, Only you can decide but if you do take it on if you can take notes and photos and read up on what you have, I presume you have a watch cleaning machine and try and find if the parts you need are still available. You can always post on here for any help you might need. Myself I'm more of a clock person so I'd love to read about your ventures with clocks, might we have a few photos of you work.

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Welcome Tony, I started with clocks & moved onto watches. I am self taught & therefore made a lot of mistakes but improved over the years to a point of vary rarely getting into trouble with them !!! However  I would first start with a very basic watch just so you get used to handling the smaller parts etc. 

This is a friendly forum with lots of knowledge & help, enjoy.

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    • It's a bit hard to tell. Looks like the adjust wheel looks grimy tried to zoom the picture but it's a bit blurred. What I would do is put the stem back in and check the enguagement to see if it engages smoothly and isnt binding. Check the squared end of the stem to see if the corners haven't been rounded.
    • I have stripped down the movement completely and will check and re-assemble it tomorrow. Here's a pic of what the stem area looked like. Notice anything wrong ? I'm a newbie with quartzes so I certainly don't.
    • The additional jewels for the 24 jewels movements is for the auto winder, so shouldn't effect the loading of the gear train. The balances I believe are all the same, with some receiving additional adjustment for chronometer grading. I wonder if the GR reference is made from measurements of original springs fitted, and perhaps Omega updates them over time? Perhaps the metallurgy of the springs changed through the years, although all would be white alloy. The GR catalogue also quotes various springs for the Cal 26X range, but I believe these should probably all be the same. There's an argument that running a centre-seconds hand adds to the load (it will typically reduce amplitude by something like 5-10 degrees when adjusted) but that's not enough to significantly affect performance. I see that on the Cousins website they list three different springs if you search for a Cal 565... On my Cal 552 I have a 1.10 x .105 x 360 (11) spring which reaches 300 degrees amplitude, if that helps.
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