Jump to content

Desks/Tables and Edging


chadders1966

Recommended Posts

Hi

For quite a while I used a table top and adjustable legs from IKEA to work on so I could set the working surface at a good height for working on watches. It was mostly fine but as I used my microscope more often, and the fact that I do other stuff than watch work on the table, the set height wasn't always appropriate. Earlier this year I splashed out on an electrically operated adjustable desk and it has been great. At the press of a button I can raise or lower the working surface and it it suprisingly solid, even at it's top height - which is really meant for using as a standing desk so is higher than I'll need. It helps that the top is actually a piece of wood rather than whatever the IKEA one was made of.

I'm fortunate that I have a lot of storage and space (a side effect of living on my own ;)) so everything gets put away every time apart from my microscope which is attached to the table top with a clamp and articulated arm. Combined they are heavy so it can also bear a lot of weight, as well as having a large surface area. The thing I miss from a real watchmakers desk is any kind of edging/fence/rail, or groove, for catching parts. I don't have as many 'flyers' as I used to, but still have a habit of dropping the odd part and then having to search for it.

Not trusting my rather poor woodworking skills I looked for another solution and decided to give this a go:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PREMIUM-Edge-Corner-Guards-Set/dp/B00U77TJ4Y/ref=lp_60569031_1_15/255-3214105-4836363?s=baby&ie=UTF8&qid=1481537394&sr=1-15

It's obviously meant to protect children from table edges, but what interested me is that it stands proud of the surface. Also you can remove it if it isn't right :). I bought some and fitted it and am quite pleased with the result. It's not as good as the 'proper' solution, but as you can see from my attached photos it projects about 1.5cm above the surface, easily enough for stopping small parts. As I fitted it all round the edge (including in front of where I work instead of the traditional groove) it also has the added effect of stopping me from working too close to the edge as I have been in the habit of doing - as it is foam it doesn't hurt if you catch it with an elbow either. Another thing is it certainly doesn't look out of place, in fact it looks quite good - from a distance at least.

Hopefully this information may be of some use to others.

Stephen

20161212_093103.jpg

20161212_093152.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea for the rim......as for the adjustable table, I was looking for that but was a bit shocked about the price, $350 on sale and an amazing amount for the Bergeon https://shop.bergeon.ch/Catalogue/PDF/6005 S T.pdf

...So when I had the opportunity to buy a watchmaker's workingstation, I took it as it was on the correct heigt(93 cm) and I adjust my chair a little when needed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea for the rim......as for the adjustable table, I was looking for that but was a bit shocked about the price, $350 on sale and an amazing amount for the Bergeon https://shop.bergeon.ch/Catalogue/PDF/6005 S T.pdf

...So when I had the opportunity to buy a watchmaker's workingstation, I took it as it was on the correct heigt(93 cm) and I adjust my chair a little when needed.


Hi
Where did you buy the bench from?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Watchtime said:

Great idea for the rim......as for the adjustable table, I was looking for that but was a bit shocked about the price, $350 on sale and an amazing amount for the Bergeon https://shop.bergeon.ch/Catalogue/PDF/6005 S T.pdf

...So when I had the opportunity to buy a watchmaker's workingstation, I took it as it was on the correct heigt(93 cm) and I adjust my chair a little when needed.

I'm a bit of a traditionalist so I probably would have bought a watchmakers bench if I could have found one, but now I'm happy I bought what I did. You are correct though the adjustable height tables cost quite a lot, particularly as I wanted one with a powerful motor, wooden surface and also large area.

I did try with my previous table having it at the recommended height but that was not high enough for me to feel comfortable, particularly as I have spondylosis and need to keep my neck as straight as I can. I'm not particularly tall either, I think the ideal working height can really vary from person to person - even people the same height can have quite a difference in torso size, leg length etc.

A lot of it comes down to personal preference, as you say you can always adjust your chair height. Again I prefer not to do this because of neck problems. I like to sit upright with my feet planted flat on the floor, that's just how I feel the most comfortable.

I really appreciate the adjustable height for the ease of changing to suit what I am doing. As I said this is my general purpose working desk so I can do watch work, use my microscope, use my computer, work with tools, write letters (yes, really :)) etc. all in the same place and in comfort.

Whatever people do, using a specific bench, kitchen table, home made worktop or something else, they should make sure they are comfortable. This hobby of ours can lead to back, neck and other problems easily if we don't take care.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IKEA has also manually adjustable desk (much cheaper than electrical one) product name is  SKARSTA, moves up and down between 70 and 120cm. I suppose worktop could be exchanged for better one :). Price around 150$

Edited by Rafal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So that is what the last person to work on this movement appears to have done.  There was a "wad" of adhesive material in the vicinity of that hole when I took the dial off.  I was hoping to take the high road and fix the issue in the work I did on this movement. I wasn't sure if I was imagining things or not when I looked at the screw hole, but it does appear to be somewhat distended.  I had not considered the posibility that someone had forced a screw that too big in there.  I had wondered about using a technique I've applied in other applications (where the screws are in the same scale as human hands) that involves counter drilling the plug with a  reverse threaded tap.  When I've had to do that in the past, the screw has generally caught and backed out from the torque on the tap (instead of yielding and letting the tap bore into it.)  I don't like doing that, but it's saved my rear a couple of times, but the smallest bolt I've tried that on had a 5 mm head.  This is an entirely different ball of wax. I am still contemplating disolving the screw with alum, even if that means I have to stick the dial down with double sided tape until I gain the skills to actually replace the screw.
    • Hi Thomas, you should be able to find the right (or on close to beeing) in a Ronda or DCN balance staff catalogue. Cousins uk have those available as a download.
    • Hello everyone. My name is Cees (pronounced "case"). I have been working on watches for a few years now. Got down the rabbit hole when I started watching "how to" videos on watch repair when my watch broke while on holiday. I'm not interested in collecting watches, but purely in the technical side. I love fixing them and also love collecting the tools I need (or might possibly need one day...).
    • The movement is FHF, something like this. But it will not help much to find stem.  Sometimes making one is easier
    • I think they all have their pros and cons, the one I suggested is a threadlock loctite product (Loctite is now owned by Henkel), In general I use the current one that is recommended on their Loctite page (link here)   I use blue (243) for the actual crown the (stick is actually 248 which is the stick version of 243), like I said it is very convenient for using on stems. Blue holds the crown for everyday use, but can be removed if you need to with a little heat. I use the red 277 for things like stem extensions where I have no intention of ever removing it. The purple I don't use (but I have seen some youtubers use it) as I think the blue is removable so why take the risk on a weaker product.   This is interesting, and a useful bit of information to know 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...